806 hydraulic problem

The Vet and I go round and round on this one.

If you can't see anything wrong with the gasket and o-ring, put a pump in 'er. That "weak" lift along with poor remote operation is a classic symptom of a wobbled out rear pump. Especially on a tractor of that age.

Just my opinion,

Allan

I dunno. Maybe it was from all those years of working on automatic transmissions that did it for me. Very heavy on the hydraulics and heavy on the valving.

Our "Human nature" erally wants to find that bad/stuck valve, defunct regulator or the leaking o-ring instead of shelling out the big money for a pump.

Trouble is, the "problem child" is "usually" the old pump that wears out. :>)

Allan

The shops use a "Flow-Rater" plugged into one of the remotes and they go thru a long laundry list of checks to find out exactly what the heck is wrong with the hydraulic system. It checks pressures, it checks gallons per minute flow-vs-rpm, it checks the pressure regulator and in general, it just plain checks it all.

The Tractor Vet, Owen or any shop guy can give you all the blow-by-blow details of how it is done.

All I am saying is that the odds are about 100 to 1 that at the end of the day you'll still need a pump. It is the main wear point.

Certainly, if you don't want to gamble the price of that pump, by all means, haul the tractor to town or have a "Red Mech" bring his machine out and have the system tested.

Or, perhaps you could bolt in a known "good" pump?

Hope ya get 'er goin',

Allan

As far as the hydraulic problem, how quickly did the problem occur? A stuck pilot operated relief valve failure usually occurs when the system has been working fine and then just quits completely without warning. A blown oring or pump seals will leave you with a little flow but not a usable system. A pump that wears out will generally give warning by losing pressure or flow over a longer period of time. A worn pump is also RPM dependent. It would be good if you could swap in a known good relief valve before pulling the pump.