TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Oliver & Cockshutt Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum

OT: Some questions about Trees

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

JayWalt

05-02-2007 07:34:28

Report to Moderator

Dad's got a maple out back that he got from his mom 30 years ago. It had a bad start due to the weather. It is split about 2 foot off the ground with about10 branches. Cureently it is about 25feet tall, but no center trunk, just long vertical upright brances. it is an utter pain to mow around, and its starting to get bad in the center void. Dad fears limbs will fall onto the power lines if we let it go. Dad decided to just cut off most of the branches and seal them. I talked him into trying to transplant a branch and start a new tree that will grow properly. Then we can destump the old one. Question is, is this even possible.? I know 20 years ago it wasnt. This is due to a very inadequate and nonexistent root structore with just a branch. With the development of root promoting chemicals, is such a feat possible? How do I fix this? Dad wants to keep it (or parts of it for a new tree) for sentimental reasons, but the tree simply looks horrible with all the limbs chopped off. Is there anyway to save this tree through some sort of tranplsnting/grafting, or something?

Also, we got 6 Black Walnut trees out back. The last few years they have developed what dad calls green-grey moss/mold/fungus on the trunk. It does not seem to be moss as it grows all around the trunk and dad thinks it killed one last year. I love these old trees and would like any help in getting them healthy again.

Thanks for any help guys!!

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

JayWalt

05-02-2007 20:15:17

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

thanks everyone, ill get some pics tomorrow, especially of the walnut. Dad has already butchered the maple, and its only got 2 main branches left. He did this befor eI had a say, and I wasnt very happy about it because we were gonna investigate what to do first. Might try some things see if I can get one to sprout or something. We will see. Where/what are the seeds on maples? I havent a clue, haha

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

SuperA-Tx

05-02-2007 14:48:03

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

Andrew and Janicholson prety much said what I wanted to say. If its sentamental then keep the tree around until it seeds then get some of them and start you a new one.

One other way of supporting a split in the trunk or limbs is with eye bolts, turn buckles, and wire.

The growth on the side of the walnut sounds more like lichens. Doesnt really hurt the tree if thats what it is. Lichens are pretty common on old trees and even some young ones in shady, humid areas. Old oak trees are quite pretty with them on the trunk.

Make sure it isnt tea scale, (greyish/white insect) I dont think it is tho.

If you just want to make sure concerning the fungus you can spray up the trunk with chlorothalonil aka daconil.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Mike Van

05-02-2007 14:24:29

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

Just my 2 cents, but I'd never put rod or bolts in a tree, some poor s.o.b. is going to saw into them someday. I have no problem guying one, you can see the wire at least. When we removed old tree guys, we always left 3' of wire hanging out. AT least someone would know there was a bolt on the end of it.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

higgins

05-02-2007 14:19:01

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

3 choices: sprouts, seeds, and air-layering.Maybe 4 - grafting. Collect seeds as soon as they fall and get them into moist soil. Unless you're in a maple forest most of the seeds will be self-fertilized and have much of the same genetic makeup.
Air-layering is done by slightly slitting the bark on new shoots, powder with root hormone, wrap with moist sphagnum moss, wrap with plastic and tie ends. You should see roots in about a month. When you do cut the stem and plant like a normal seedling and keep watered.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Dave H (MI)

05-02-2007 12:49:35

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

Don't know what kind of maple it is, but I shot a woodchuck next to a 30 ft tall silver maple about 10 years ago and nicked the trunk. It festered for a year or so and then the tree came down in a storm. I cut it off at ground level and about a dozen suckers came up from the base. Cut off all but the biggest and you will soon have a nice tree. Mine is over 20 ft tall now but silver maples are weeds and grow fast.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

BOBM25

05-02-2007 10:01:17

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

I think its possible. I got a story 'bout that. Don't know if it will help or not, but here it is.

Couple years ago, around this time of year, I was wondering through woods 'shroomin. Dead, fallen trees are good for mushrooms so thats what I generally look for. Anyway, I came across this maple that had been struck by lightning. The bolt split the trunk and half of the tree was left upright, the other half was laying on the ground. It was somewhat attached still at the base. Well, one of the thinner branches near the top of the fallen half had grown into the mushy wet leaves and stuff on the ground. (you know how woods are here in NW OH, always squishy, even in the summer, goes back to the Black Swamp thing). That branch shot roots into the muck and right at that point now stood a 4' tall sappling.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Janicholson

05-02-2007 08:09:38

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 07:34:28

Even with good grafting techniques, the process will take 10 years to produce a substantial "center" trunk. I would run ready rod through the two trunks about 20 inches above the crotch, and call it good.

Pull the two trunks together with a ratchet strap five feet above the crotch. Then use a long 1/2" auger bit to go through both trunks about 20" above the crotch. Using 9/16 ready rod, and two nuts jambed together, screw the rod into the 1/2" hole and you are done. If alignment is a problem, make a tab for each of two ready rod pieces and bolt them together in the crotch.

I would ask a nursery for appropriate fungicide for the walnuts. JimN

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

JayWalt

05-02-2007 08:58:14

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to Janicholson, 05-02-2007 08:09:38

thanks jim, my fear about the maple was justified then. I guess I'll either wait till whats left dies for the slughter, or let it go. As for the walnuts, I'll get ahold of a nursery this weekend.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Janicholson

05-02-2007 09:13:48

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to JayWalt, 05-02-2007 08:58:14

If it has been Slashed to the bones, there may be hope if you are a bit patient.
Let the suckers(whips of new growth) come out for two months, then choose one that is a good intended position and strong among the selection, and nurture it to health. Trim off all the others after two years so th that the chosen one prospers. The others need to be there to nurish the stump. Best of luck, JimN

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Andrew Z

05-02-2007 10:30:17

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to Janicholson, 05-02-2007 09:13:48

It sounds like the maple is a loss, if you let it sucker the proper terms are water sprouts they are actually epemoric branches, the tree will have very poor form and will never grow right at all. It may live but will never become a productive and well formed tree. of course this depends alittle on what maple you have if its a Red, Silver, Norway, Mountain., these are weak trees and are highly rot prone. It is better to remove it and plant a nice Sugar Maple or black maple not sure where you are in US. if you let them go they will "sucker" Second those "suckers" will easliy break off during a wind storm or ice storm. The better thing would be to remove the tree and plant a new one in its spot. As for the Black Walnut it defsounds like you have a fungus, the biggest problem would be nectria canker this could kill the tree or in the best case it will permently kill the tree. I would recomend this site for tree info.

Link

Ask a nursury or a forester to what is the best treatment. I used this site all through college went I went for forestry. Very helpful and they will tell you wayyy more than youll ever need to know!

Andrew

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Janicholson

05-02-2007 12:23:38

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to Andrew Z , 05-02-2007 10:30:17

I agree andrew, I was suggesting that if it had sentemental value, that might be the only solution. JimN

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Andrew Z

05-02-2007 15:58:36

Report to Moderator

Re: OT: Some questions about Trees in reply to Janicholson, 05-02-2007 12:23:38

I agree 100% with you Jim, Iv told poopel that if they want to keep the "line" going to collect seeds and plant them and then in some way the tree keeps "linving in Way"

Andrew

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

[Options] [Printer Friendly] [Posting Help] [Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy