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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Basket Case Tear Down Part 3

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neblinc

05-02-2007 05:41:50




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Well I am slowly getting this H engine tore down so I can take it to a machine shop to have them check out the block & head. I am at the point now trying to get the pistons out. Have removed the rod caps on #1 & #4 since I could get to the bolts, #2 & #3 are positioned where I can't get at them.
What is my next step? Do I try and drive out #1 & #4 pistons and hope the crank will move? I know #4 is locked up for sure, the rest I think I see a slight wet spot from the PB Blaster around the pistons looking from underneath, or maybe my imagination ; )
Am I going to be able to drive the pistons up from below? or will it be a wasted effort?

Randy

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Tom Windsor

05-02-2007 15:18:53




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 05:41:50  
You need to go ahead and get this engine off the tractor. and then,

Turn it upside down.

1. Carefully get the front pulley off. That is a mouthful. (I broke mine getting it off) make sure you safeguard the key. I would put the nuts and bolts and pieces you are taking off in plastic bags and label them. You need to take this off with a puller.

2. Get the govenor, magneto drive, and idler gear off and put them up.

3. Then, CAREFULLY, remove the drive gear for the cam. ANOTHER MOUTH FULL. If you have never done this, you need good advice and a puller. I am not one to give advice on that subject cause I broke mine. and you are going to do that also if you pry on it and bang on it. This needs to come off with a puller.

4. Remove the big plate up front.

5. then, carefully and I say carefully, take the three pieces off at the oil seal in the rear. The little cross piece metal piece comes out first. Get it out, then take off the cast seal holders--two pieces bolted together.

6. Once you get the main bearing caps off, the crank will lift up just a little and then it can be rotated so that you can get to the nuts on the other rod caps that you cannot now reach.

While you are monkeying around in the bottom, take out the oil pump...two bolts...and a little piece of pipe about 4 inches long...screw it out of the block because if not careful, you will break it off like everyone else does.

The hardest thing here is removing the pulley off the crank and the cam drive gear. Some of the other guys on here will have to tell you how to safely do that.

TW

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neblinc

05-02-2007 06:15:36




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 05:41:50  
Thanks guy's for the ideas! I need to read up on how to brace up and split the tractor.
I can see making something to support the front rails since there are holes there, but don't see any holes on the back half to attach a brace.

Randy



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El Toro

05-02-2007 06:51:57




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 06:15:36  
You can see splitting stands on here. Hal
www.omarassociates.net/agriequip.html



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neblinc

05-02-2007 10:01:28




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to El Toro, 05-02-2007 06:51:57  
Wow Hal!! Those would be nice to have, bet they are a bit pricey ; )

Randy



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EL Toro

05-02-2007 10:41:28




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 10:01:28  
If you can get some good pictures from that web site you may be able to make some splitting stands. One of my co-worker's and I did that on a log splitter and a composter. We took lots of pictures and measurements. I have a picture of that splitter somewhere. My co-worker still has the composter and grinds his leaves. I use an old
Toro Whirlwind rotary mower and do the same thing
in a lot less time. We should have used a 6-inch I-beam on the splitter. The 4-inch was a little bent when we sold it. Hal

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Janicholson

05-02-2007 06:32:20




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 06:15:36  
Look in the archives (search for) box above to get fifty hits on stands.
If you send me an Email with your direct email address I can send you some pictures of stands.
Do not use wood crates or pallets. Do not use concrete blocks (even solids) support the trans/differential with solid hardwood blocking to assure it stays up, it wont tip with rear wheels on it. Good luck, JimN



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Janicholson

05-02-2007 05:59:09




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 05:41:50  
Clean the bore above where they will be moving. If they begin to move, then push them both directions and clean the scrapings ahead of them on the way out. do not hit on the rods at all. Use hardwood or brass to apply force to the pin bosses from below, and a capped pipe to push from above (just smaller than the ringland, and carved to fit popup parts of the piston if any). Pulling the crank out of the engine may be necessary to get to the 2-3 bolts. Do not use a "bigger" hammer, swelling the piston/s can crack the bores and ruin the block. Good luck, and be patient. JimN

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RustyFarmall

05-02-2007 05:56:42




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 05:41:50  
The easiest way to do that is to remove the engine from the tractor, take the head off, then place the engine up-side down on the floor with some wood planks between it and the floor, and then remove the crankshaft main caps. You can then lift the crank up and rotate it to gain access to those other rod caps.



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El Toro

05-02-2007 05:55:17




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 Re: Basket Case Tear Down Part 3 in reply to neblinc, 05-02-2007 05:41:50  
I would use a piece of oak to tap on the connecting rods using a big hammer. Don't get too aggresive with the hammer and damage the block. The sleeve may come out with the piston
and you can use your torch to heat the sleeve and the piston can be removed.

Since the weather is warm, if that fails I would take that engine outside away from any building and pour some kerosene on top of the piston and set it on fire. You need that heat to free them.
I would only do one at a time too. Tap on the rod
with that oak as soon as the flame dies down. Hal

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