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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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(Farmall) A-Team Update

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dunniteowl

04-27-2007 11:58:37




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Janicholson and A. Bohemian (and all others that answered my pleas...)

Before I start, I would like to say a big THANK YOU to you guys (including those not mentioned by name!) I am one Ham Dappy Camper!

Betty just started about 15 minutes ago and after this initial period of sputters, spitting and blue smoke, she is running clean and smooth at the moment.

Re: An Alternative View by A. Bohemian...
Yes, this is the tractor that I perhaps (not guaranteed) added tranny fluid into the crankcase. I also noted that I had just filled the oil air breather cup (might have overdone it...) and this could have been being sucked into the intake and then spit back out.

I think the initial issue was that I overheated the head gasket from not clearing out the radiator grill from my last mowing and, the head, being old, blew.

That mixed some water and oil and, after having to set a spell not being worked or cranked, the water rusted the crank in place. I had to release that with a breaker bar and careful whacking with a 2 pound hand sledge.

The last compression readings I got before she started were:
Cyl 1: 90 pds
Cyl 2: 82 pds
Cyl 3: 71 pds
Cyl 4: 75 pds

I gather this is from the continual cranking I had to do to get the timing reset, making the oil flow and seal better.

Also, for those out there, the old manual states how to get the timing set by cranking with a finger in Cyl 1's spark plug hole to feel the pressure and then check for TDC on the timing mark. That works, but if it doesn't there might be an easier way than what I went through.

It looks like the crank might have been rebuilt in the past. I have what looked to be an additional timing mark on the Clutch wheel and the original. I couldn't get timing with either one to fire up. I used the finger in the cylinder, then shone a light into the hole and hand cranked at the fan blade to set TDC when the cylinder wasn't moving up or down. Then I followed the magneto installation and seating guide.

That works and beats the heck out of crawling under the tractor every three minutes. It also avoids wondering if the timing marks are set properly from the last rebuild. I can hear her running as I type this.

There is no knocking and no rattling. She sounds smooth and sweet. The exhaust is not spitting out any more oil and the smoke is -- well, there isn't any smoke from the stack so that's a good sign.

Just wished to post this to let you all know All's Well That Ends Well and a HUGE THANKS for all your advice, wisdom and encouragment.

I will be pigeonholing money for a rebuild soon, btw -- just in case... She is 63 years old.

regards,
dunniteowl

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Janicholson

04-28-2007 14:05:50




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 Re: (Farmall) A-Team Update in reply to dunniteowl, 04-27-2007 11:58:37  
This is a very fine place to "be". That tractor may not need a rebuild for years, you might have enough to buy another unit (like a Ute of some type) Great effort. JimN



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georgeky

04-27-2007 22:16:05




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 Re: (Farmall) A-Team Update in reply to dunniteowl, 04-27-2007 11:58:37  
If it is running that good with no knocks, rattles or smoke,why worry about a rebuild yet?



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gene bender

04-27-2007 17:37:03




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 Re: (Farmall) A-Team Update in reply to dunniteowl, 04-27-2007 11:58:37  
The timing marks on the flywheel CANNOT be changed as there is a dowell pin that locates the flywheel to the crank.



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dunniteowl

04-27-2007 23:23:10




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 Re: (Farmall) A-Team Update in reply to gene bender, 04-27-2007 17:37:03  
Interesting to know the timing marks cannot get off on the crankshaft. Is it possible the magneto or distributor is misaligned, relative to the timing marks?

In any case, I have run the tractor for about an hour and a half after the initial start, cooldown and re-torqueing of the head bolts. She has never run better while in my possession!

Understand, the grass and weeds that I mow have been unable to be mowed since about mid to late October (I have no garage and weather and time permitting is what allows me to work on the tractor outside without cover.) So as spring has sprung like crazy around here, the weeds and grass are averageing about 4-6' and in some places as high as 9' (not kidding, I'll link some photobucket shots of me on the tractor with the grass in the background.)

A. Bohemain mentioned that if I had trouble mowing with more than a 1/2 swath on the brush hog with the tractor, then I was due a rebuild soon anyway. Well, usually when the grass is about 3' I have to make a two pass cut, one at about 10" high and then another at about 4" and I am used to having to use only 1/2 a swath cut in the first pass. Today, I ran a 3/4 to full swath in 1st gear with no bogging down and I was cutting the stuff I am talking about today. 4-6' in height. I don't think I have ever been this happy with this tractor's performance.

It just makes me wonder how long this gasket has been a problem and how tough these tractors must really be.

When you hear someone say, "They don't make them like they used to," they must be talking about Farmall's made in the 30' and 40's, because these things are nearly indestructable.

One thing is for certain. I am listening a lot more attentively to the sounds my tractor makes while I am using it and I am also making sure to keep better track of my hours run and maintenance requirements. Good maintenance is an ounce of prevention with the Farmall series of tractors, it would appear.

Thanks again everyone for all your comments and advice. You folks make the difference when it comes to working on Betty. If nothing else, I know there's someone else out there that can at least say, "Wait a second, think about what you're doing."

regards all,
dunniteowl
(Super A happy at this point.)

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