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Electrolysis Success

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GeneMO

04-20-2007 05:46:56




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Got"r done!!! It worked. I had narrowed my lack of success down to two problems (I thought)
Not enough surface area on the electrode/sacrifical metal side (8 1/2 inch re-bars hanging down in the solution) and I had mixed my water/washing soda too strong (4 55oz boxes in approx 50 gallon of water). So I found some sheet metal and was going to add this to my sacrifical metal side. Then I re read so of the tips I got on this site and realized I had my battery charger leads hooked up backwards!!! I went down and put the negative lead on the part to be cleaned, went to work and by evening the paint/rust/gunk was falling of my Super H gas tank support bracket! I am pleased with the process. I still believe the solution is too strong. It will only operate on 6 volts at about 7 amps. I still trips on 12 v. Gene

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Mike CA

04-20-2007 10:57:03




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to GeneMO, 04-20-2007 05:46:56  
So, from what I understand of this process, it takes something and turns it the opposite?

So if I got in the tank, after a day I would be rich, smart, and thin?


Where do I get instructions again???



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nballen

04-20-2007 11:32:17




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to Mike CA, 04-20-2007 10:57:03  
You forgot to add

"tall and handsome"



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Mike CA

04-20-2007 17:20:24




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to nballen, 04-20-2007 11:32:17  
I'm 6'4".

But I'm ugly



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the Unforgiven

04-20-2007 08:46:01




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to GeneMO, 04-20-2007 05:46:56  
Yeah, hooking it up right should help quite a bit! Once you catch on to it you will never go back.



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banjo

04-20-2007 06:52:46




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to GeneMO, 04-20-2007 05:46:56  
7 amps is pretty good. i usually get about 4-5 , just takes a little longer to clean.



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georgeky

04-20-2007 06:48:30




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to GeneMO, 04-20-2007 05:46:56  
Gene I have a lot of old rusty stuff that could use the same treatment. Where do you get that soda at? How is your sailor getting along now?



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Keith-OR

04-20-2007 21:36:04




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to georgeky, 04-20-2007 06:48:30  
Wal-Mart has bi-carbonate of soda..It is under the name of "P-H Plus" in the pool section.HTH

Keith & Shawn



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Tom Windsor

04-20-2007 18:17:19




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 Re: WHERE TO GET THE STUFF in reply to georgeky, 04-20-2007 06:48:30  
Go to Lowes or places they sell pool supplies. There are verious trade names and one of them is "Aqua Chem Ph Add". Just see the container. You need "100% sodium Carbonate" NOT Sodium Bi-carbonate" althought I am told that will work also. I paid $5.00 for 4 pounds today.



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Haas

04-20-2007 19:27:55




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 Re: WHERE TO GET THE STUFF in reply to Tom Windsor, 04-20-2007 18:17:19  
Much cheaper to go to the Farmer's Co-0p and buy the Soda Ash in a 50 lb bag. Most CO-OPs will carry it in bags. Typically a 50 lb bag will cost $15. Put it in a plastic storage tub and it will keep forever.



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Tom Windsor

04-20-2007 20:09:55




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 Re: WHERE TO GET THE STUFF in reply to Haas, 04-20-2007 19:27:55  
Yep...sure can..then you will have enough to last this lifetime and the next :-)



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JayWalt

04-20-2007 07:11:41




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to georgeky, 04-20-2007 06:48:30  
george, I had a hard time finding the soda as well. Couldnt find it at walmart, and most places with laundry detergent. I found it at Meijers. I dont know if you have any of those. Washing soda isnt as nearly common as it used to be, and is probably why it is harder to find.

The stuff is pretty cheap too!!



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georgeky

04-20-2007 09:34:48




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to JayWalt, 04-20-2007 07:11:41  
Yeah, there are a couple of Meijers stores in Lexington. I will look the next time I am in Lexington.



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the Unforgiven

04-20-2007 09:56:03




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to georgeky, 04-20-2007 09:34:48  
This process is great, but to fully appreciate it you need to tie into something that is really nasty. You can dip a rusty wheel from your '77 model pick-up and it will come out looking like a fresh new steel wheel, great! But that first time you do a whole engine that has been lying in the dirt for 70 years and is rusted solid with what looks like little or no chance of getting any of it apart without breaking a bunch of stuff, and it comes out clean and you completly disassemble it right then and there without breaking anything is when you really realize what you can actually tackle with it! It really shines if you are into obsolete stuff.

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BF8690

04-20-2007 12:21:53




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to the Unforgiven, 04-20-2007 09:56:03  
When doing a stuck nasty motor do you have to be concern about and soft metal bushings? Brass bushings? The stuff I read on the internet said that the eltrolytic rust removal will eat that metal up faster than you can say "Dick's hatband." So do you just replace those?



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the Unforgiven

04-20-2007 16:33:39




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to BF8690, 04-20-2007 12:21:53  
It will eat your sacrificial anode fairly rapidly, quickly if it is too small. That is why scrap sheet works pretty nice. Right now I am using up some F20 hoods that were smashed beyond repair. It seems like carbon? rods are the hot set-up, they they don't erode and the crud coming off your part doesn't stick to them like it does with steel. As for the brass, it will not damage it but will discoler it some. Any of the babbit I have done was damaged before I cleaned it, but I did not notice any erosion due to the process.

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JayWalt

04-20-2007 14:48:24




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to BF8690, 04-20-2007 12:21:53  
i think they are referring to if you use brass or copper as the sacrificial electrode. I used a terminated wire to connect to my sheet steel for a sacrifical electrode, the metal fell in and the connector was suobmerged and it was gone in the morning!!

If you are concerned, do a test with a junk peice of brass, but i dont think it will hurt them.



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georgeky

04-20-2007 10:07:02




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to the Unforgiven, 04-20-2007 09:56:03  
All my stuff is obsolete, so I will have plenty of things to practice on. Most the stuff I have is in fair shape, but I do have some rusty stuff as well. I will give this a whirl. I may have questions in the future about this. What kind of a tank should I use?



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the Unforgiven

04-20-2007 16:19:15




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to georgeky, 04-20-2007 10:07:02  
A big plastic tub or barrel works nice, the size really depends on how big the stuff you want to do is, and how much extra space you have. I have used pieces of Tupperware for small parts, it really doesn't care. You can use a steel tank of most any sort also.



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georgeky

04-20-2007 17:44:43




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to the Unforgiven, 04-20-2007 16:19:15  
The steel tub is what I was wondering about. I have a couple mowing machine bars that are in need of this, and didn't have a plastic tub that big. Thanks for the info.



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JayWalt

04-20-2007 06:05:11




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to GeneMO, 04-20-2007 05:46:56  
from what I'd read and know about electronics, the washing soda does one purpose. It ionizes the water to make it conductive to electrical currents. Pure water is not electrically conductive. When you add salts, they disassociate and become ionized and the water becomes conductive. There is a minimum amount required for ion saturation, then the rest is just a waste. From what I've read, its 1 tablespoon/gallon. From my calculations you need 27.5 oz, or roughly 3.5 cups. Seems you addes ALOT more then you needed. The extra salt shouldn't hurt anything, but tat is quite a bit extra. Glad it worked for ya!!. I gave up with it on my mower deck, and used the wire brush cup on my angle grinder.

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Nat 2

04-20-2007 05:55:23




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 Re: Electrolysis Success in reply to GeneMO, 04-20-2007 05:46:56  
Don't worry about the solution being too strong. It works, right?



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