Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

(Farmall) A Team Request Update

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
dunniteowl

04-06-2007 11:32:03




Report to Moderator

Hey-oh!

Thanks one and all for the good and solid advice about the tractor named Betty.

Update: I pulled the Head yesterday (forgot to use the square) and checked for damage. None found. No tools inside, no missing parts. Still not cranking. Seeing as how it was mentioned that hooking up the van to the tractor and pulling it in gear to "break loose" the suspected rust freezing of the crankshaft was a BAD IDEA, I opted for dropping the oil pan and getting a good look under the skirt so to speak.

There was nothing visually wrong with the system there. However, as I drained the oil a good pint of clear water came through the oil drain before oil started coming out. As it was clear, it couldn't have been from the radiator/engine block because I'm using a water green glycol mix.

I supposed in the first post that I might have gotten water in there when it rained on the tractor during a storm and I didn't have a good sealing between the block and the head.

So... I took out my breaker bar, placed it squarely on the flats below the piston rods and tapped smartly with a 2 pound hand sledge. I repeated this process with each of the cylinders and then activated the starter with a quick on off series of pushes. The cylinders jiggled, but didn't really go anywhere.

I repeated this process three more times. On the last time *(4th total) the pistons started moving smooth as you please and the tractor cranked beautifully! (just a note for any others out there that cannot garage or really cover your tractors when working on them -- find a way to do so!)

I replaced the head and torqued it down to 65ft Pounds. Compression was from back to front:
80psi, 65psi, 60psi and 45psi. I don't think that's good enough for combustion. I have yet to install plugs and give it a go.

Question: Should I retorque to 80ft Pounds as I now have a new gasket that requires both torqueing and a sealing compound versus the original metal to metal seal and torqueing?

Thanks again for all your help and assistance. I shall soon post a picture or two of the lovely lady you have all helped to keep running.

regards to all,
dunniteowl

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Red Dave

04-06-2007 16:10:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: (Farmall) A Team Request Update in reply to dunniteowl, 04-06-2007 11:32:03  
Glad you got it loosened up, but with compression like that, it either has a lot of wear, or some valves aren't seating too good. Did you have the valves gone over while you had the head off?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Roger Mills

04-06-2007 12:00:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: (Farmall) A Team Request Update in reply to dunniteowl, 04-06-2007 11:32:03  
As Jay said, give er a go. You need to block the radiator with cardboard or ? then run it until a candy thermometer shows coolant above 160 to 170. Run until the oil and the engine sides are up to working temp. That will activate the sealer, then re-torque. I understand that the final torque was upped to 80#. Then do another comp check-if they are coming up run the socks off it under heavy load then cool down and load it again. Do that for several cycles over 5-10 hours of running time and it should come back even more. Good luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JayWalt

04-06-2007 11:44:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: (Farmall) A Team Request Update in reply to dunniteowl, 04-06-2007 11:32:03  
the fact that the most extreme difference in compression is a little over half, I fear you need a rebuild. 45pis is very very weak for most any engine. Give it a go tho while you'r at it. Also try squirting a hair of oil in that cylinder to lube the rings, and check it again, see if it comes up. The rings might be stuck too since you had that issue with it not cranking.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy