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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature

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Cedric

03-26-2007 04:13:50




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During the Nebraska Test for the 100, the coolant temperatures recorded throughout the various tests ranged from 170° to 185°. I have just recently done some major work to the engine of my '51 Super C and installed a new IH temperature indicator. Like yourself, I prefer to read "numbers" so that I know exactly what's going on, so before installing it and to get some idea of what the actual temperatures were at different positions of the needle on dial, I immersed the sensor bulb in a pan of water and slowly brought it to the boil. With an accurate thermometer I noted the position of the needle as the temperature increased, and at 170° it was pointing to the upright bar of the letter D of the word Cold. At 212° it was on the right side of the letter U of Run. At this temperature it should have been in the Red zone.
After getting the engine re-assembled and running I did a second test. With the engined warmed up I put the thermometer in the top of the radiator and the reading was similar - 170° with needle on the letter D.
Last week I drove the tractor 75 miles towing a trailer with my Little Genius plow on board and on a long fairly steep grade the engine was working pretty hard and the needle went to the dividing line between the Cold and Run zone which is approximately 180°.
If your gauge is only reading 100-120 I suspect that the thermostat is not working, the temperature should go up to at least 160° even on no load.
I'm far from satisfied with gauge on my tractor, and intend to find out what sort of warranty it has. It cost me a small fortune and one would expect the needle to be in the Hot zone when the engine is boiling it's head off. Sid.

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chadd

03-26-2007 05:39:46




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 Re: Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature in reply to Cedric, 03-26-2007 04:13:50  
One thing to consider:
If your cooling system is pressurized, it increases the boiling point of the water. Your system is pressurized to 10 psig, so the coolant will first start to boil at about 253 or so degrees F. At 212 degrees, you still have a bit of clearance before the coolant starts boiling. Also, there are two different range gauges. One run range goes from 170 to 220 and the other goes from 120 to 180. Your tractor is supposed to have the 120 to 180 gauge. The other one is original equipment on the 140.

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Roger Mills

03-26-2007 06:43:35




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 Re: Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature in reply to chadd, 03-26-2007 05:39:46  
Chadd, who has the color band gauges in the lower temp range for the earlier tractors that do not have pumps or pressureized systems, lik my A??



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chadd

03-26-2007 07:17:38




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 Re: Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature in reply to Roger Mills, 03-26-2007 06:43:35  
I am not sure. . . The temperature ranges are what appear on the Case IH parts website. The website is based off of the old parts manuals. It displays parts that are no longer current as red or with /RETIRED. It says neither by the gauges I mentioned in the previous post. The problem is that I have found several that they missed, so I am unsure if they are still available or not. The one listed for the Farmall A is the original 1940's part number, so I know for a fact that that entry was never updated. Try asking a dealer, and mention to them that there were several ranges, and that you would like the lower one. If they don't have it, try aftermarket.

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Roger Mills

03-26-2007 05:37:22




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 Re: Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature in reply to Cedric, 03-26-2007 04:13:50  
Sid, I went through this with my A. I found out that the gauges are now all made by Rochester regardless of who you get them from. The top of the red zone is 240 which is about the same for the numbered gauges and only the face was changed. According to the book, the gasoline version of the gauge should indicate in but near the bottom of the green under normal load. The distillate version has an arrow near the top of the green and you use the shutters to warm it up to run at that temp. Obviously, the top of the green would still allow some room before water boiled, (not antifreeze mix). On an A, (all variants), the bulb for the gauge is in the lower inlet housing where the water has been cooled by the radiator so it will read MUCH cooler than at the top outlet. Just yesterday, I installed a new, (tested like yours), temperature gauge. I had replaced a head gasket and needed to heat cycle the engine to retorqe the head. I blocked 2/3 of the radiator with cardboard and ran it wide open, (in my case 2,000 rpm). The gauge came off the bottom pin when the top outlet temp was 160 degrees and reached the bottom of the cold band when the top was at 200 degrees, (took 2 hours to get there). By using an IR temp gun I found that when the top was 160 the bottom housing was 100 and at 200 the bottom was 140. With the location of bulb, and the nature of the 'Thermo-siphon' cooling, I think the gauge should have been at the bottom of the green when the top was 160 and top of the green at 200 on the top. There is about a 60 degree difference and I think the gauge ought to be calibrated for center scale at about 120 degrees and top of red at 160 or so. If you find someone who can re-calibrate these gauges please email me or post the source.

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