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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Starting Crank

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Gary Puckett

03-19-2007 19:24:53




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Originally, did the M have a different hand crank from an H, or were they the same? Which ones had the spinning handel?




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SKK-Big Red Fan

03-20-2007 20:42:40




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 Re: Starting Crank in reply to Gary Puckett, 03-19-2007 19:24:53  
Getting back to the original question. I believe there was a difference in the original H vs M crank in the distance to the bends, if memory serves me right. But both will work in either tractor.

But I've been wrong before.



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Will Sick

03-19-2007 22:37:28




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 Re: Starting Crank in reply to Gary Puckett, 03-19-2007 19:24:53  
There is no difference between the H and M crank. Both have a 3/4 inch opening. The earlier H's and m's had the spinner handle as quite a few of those came out with no electric starter. I don't know what year they changed. The later Farmalls had a cranks mostly to turn the engine for valve adjustment and timing.



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A. Bohemian

03-20-2007 07:45:43




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 True, but... in reply to Will Sick, 03-19-2007 22:37:28  
...I almost always use the crank when starting the engine after it has been sitting a while, say more than four or five days.

I set the choke according to the temperature and the throttle lever at medium idle. Then, WITH THE IGNITION OFF I pull the crank eight times, two for each cylinder.

This has the effect of ''priming'' the fuel system without straining the very original six-volt ignition system. (The original Farmall Operators Manual has more detailed instructions on this.)

Then, I climb in the driver's seat and, STILL WITH THE IGNITION OFF, I turn the motor over using the starter.

This way all the current the system can deliver goes straight to the starter motor.

After the starter has had a chance to pick up momentum (only takes a second), THEN I flick on the ignition.

This method has worked very, very well for me and can help start the tractor on a marginal battery, after it has been sitting a month or so. This is a working tractor so I need it to start and run reliably.

If I am demonstrating the tractor, this method does have the drawback of making it look like the tractor only fires when the second or third cylinder is pushed past top dead center, whereas in reality it almost always fires on the first cylinder.

Fortunately, it will also consistently start on the first pull of the crank with the ignition on, provided I have first primed the fuel system with the crank as above. This can really impress in a demonstration!

Little tricks like these are the equivalent of secret handshakes in our Great Six Volt Secret Society, membership in which absolutely guarantees trouble-free operation of six volt systems in all kinds of vehicles and which none of us can ever mention to non-initiates on pain of...aw, hell!

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GeneMO

03-20-2007 20:41:50




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 Re: True, but... in reply to A. Bohemian, 03-20-2007 07:45:43  
I am 52, grew up on these ole Farmalls, and didn't know this.


Thanks,Gene

Ps I will give it a try tomorrow morning on the ole M It has sat for about two months.



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chadd

03-20-2007 09:47:36




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 Re: True, but... in reply to A. Bohemian, 03-20-2007 07:45:43  
Ummm... If your six volt system can't handle priming the fuel system and starting the engine at the same time, you might want to think about refreshing it. I started our W6 (standard version of an M) with 30W oil in the sump at 32 degrees last week. It is a standard 6V system with new 0/1 gauge cables and a new switch. Six volt systems can start the engine just as well as a 12. It is just that 12V lights and accessories are so much better.

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A. Bohemian

03-20-2007 10:20:38




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 Re: True, but... in reply to chadd, 03-20-2007 09:47:36  
While I respect both your points of view, and I retired from the Six Volt Conversion Wars many years ago, I think you are misunderstanding me.

My electrical system certainly CAN handle the strain of "priming" (my term, not IH's) the fuel system. If the tractor has been run recently, or the battery has been on the charger, I just hop in the seat, yank the starter wire, and go.

The procedure I outlined is for those times when the C has a marginal battery or the state of charge is questionable and I MUST start it, right away.

That, or when I am showing off that it will fire and run on the first pull of the crank with the ignition on.

There is nothing weak or feeble about this system. I maintain it properly.

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chadd

03-20-2007 11:49:14




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 Re: True, but... in reply to A. Bohemian, 03-20-2007 10:20:38  
OK, I thought you were implying that you were required to do that in order to start it each time. I understand what you meant now.

Starting a tractor is kind of like everything else; everyone has their own way of doing it, they all seem to work, and its really no person's business telling them how they should do it.



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georgeky

03-20-2007 11:46:12




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 Re: True, but... in reply to A. Bohemian, 03-20-2007 10:20:38  
So is that one pull or nine with the crank. I have never had to do any priming I keep my old junk in fair shape so I can start them. Even if either one my C or Super C has been sitting for months and a dead battery they will crank and start usually on first pull as long as there is a little charge left in battery.



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NDS

03-20-2007 08:56:49




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 Re: True, but... in reply to A. Bohemian, 03-20-2007 07:45:43  
I am a member of the 12 volt society and just went out to my A that had not been started since last October checked oil and water, turned on fuel, got on tractor pushed srarter button (it has aftermarket solenoid) and drove off.



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