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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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super a seals

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wcroom

03-13-2007 18:24:39




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I have a super a with a leaky rear end. Please don"t tease me. The seals on the pto look like they won"t be too much trouble to replace, but what about the ones on the rear axle? I know I"m going to have to remove the rear wheels and the drive gears that mount on the ends of the axle to get at the seals. Anybody ever done this? How hard is it on the pain in the butt scale? Also, is there anything else other than the axle seals that I need to plan on replacing while I"ve got it apart? Pasture work season is drawing near and I don"t want to have it down any longer than I have to. Thanks in advance for your help.

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L Mack

03-14-2007 14:57:39




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 Re: super a seals in reply to wcroom, 03-13-2007 18:24:39  
If you need to replace the seals at the top of the final drive, you will have to take off the wheels. On my first try, it took about 4-hours total for the left side but I was also replacing the left final drive and moving the fender over on a B. Take the wheel off at the hub. Have a floor jack handy to roll the drive out when removed. Removing and reinstalling the drive is a two man job unless you have a lift. Removing the seal can be a job unless you have the proper tools. DO NOT DRIVE IT IN AS YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT IT UP TO GET IT OUT. (Experience talking here.) Have a seal puller handy. You may be able to drive it out if you have a hook with an end you can drive. An old Farmall hand crank may work but I would go for the seal puller. Carefully reinsert the axel end as you can dammage the new seal during reinstallation and be right where you started. I do not recommend using an air wrench on the axel bolts. They may be old and brittle and the air wrench may break one off. At least break them loose with a pull handle before you start up the air wrench. Since the left seal is at the break band, you may want to have a new band handy to replace the old one that may be soaked in oil. larry

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scotty

03-14-2007 05:04:30




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 Re: super a seals in reply to wcroom, 03-13-2007 18:24:39  
Mornin Wcroom, Dont be fooled into thinking that PTO seal is easy to replace !!! I had to take my PTO unit off the tractor and dissasemble the unit to get that seal out of the housing. That job is a PITA IMO !

Good Luck !


scotty



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SuperA-Tx

03-14-2007 06:42:52




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 Re: super a seals in reply to scotty, 03-14-2007 05:04:30  
I agree Scotty. Then you also need a new gasket when you have to do that. Plus if he has a side pulley then that seal is probly leaking and will need to replace that at the same time. Need a gasket there too.

Wcroom, if you have a seed drive you might want to check that for leaks. That takes a seal and a gasket. Easy job tho.

Axle seals arent hard to replace if you have the right stuff to do it with. If you have weights on the wheels then I would find someone with a cherry picker to pull the wheel off with. If theres oil on the brake bands then clean them good with gas if they are good or replace them.

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wcroom

03-13-2007 19:17:11




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 Re: super a seals in reply to wcroom, 03-13-2007 18:24:39  
Thank you, sir! I'll start hunting a parts manual. I think a friend of mine may have one I can borrow. I was just wondering what all this project would entail. The old tractor drinks gear oil, but I never let it get but so low. I figure what I'll save in oil will more than pay for the seals and trouble over the course of one mowing season. I appreciate your help. Thanks also for the " do one side at the time " tip. That's the kind of stuff they don't tell you until your project is sitting much closer to the ground than it should.

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Haas

03-13-2007 18:48:51




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 Re: super a seals in reply to wcroom, 03-13-2007 18:24:39  
If the axle seals are leaking, you have to pull the axles out to replace seals. The seal is in the retainer cap that is on the outside end of the final drive. That retainer holds the bearing in and serves as the seal holder as well. You can do this job without removing the final drive, but I would suggest you take the final drive off, as it's easier to remove and install the axle with it off the tractor. Also, at that time you can inspect the brakes and replace the top seals that are on the pinion shaft. To correctly do this, you need to get a parts catalog and study it to make sure you get all the necessary gaskets and so on to do a good job. Also, do one side at a time. With both final drives and the wheels off the tractor, thinks get a little unstable with these offset tractors. YOu need the weight of the final drive on the opposite side to keep things stable. A service manual would be a good idea too to show you how to do this.

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