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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal

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sflem849

02-20-2007 13:01:20




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Any tips on how to? Photos after or an original SMTA w/o hydraulics? I see in the manual that they came w/o hydraulics and I would like to convert my machine to be w/o. ;) Also any tips on what the reservoir and pump would weigh would be helpful. I bought a junkyard piece to go inplace of the pump off an M and I am hoping the piece bolts up. I am a little afraid to try and retime the tractor after I do this since I am a virgin to that type of work. It pulls really well right now and I would hate to risk that for only stripping 40 or 50 pounds. ANY INFO APPRECIATED!

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sflem849

02-20-2007 19:09:16




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 Re: SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal in reply to sflem849, 02-20-2007 13:01:20  
Don't worry guys. I took a lot of pics before I took it apart so I will be able to get it back together again someday. And, I will DEFINATLY be keeping all the parts. So far, I have just removed the reservoir and belt pulley (and replaced w factory cover) It looks like the only physical damage I will have to do is drill two or three holes in the plate that the reservoir mounts to for mounting the rear tank support (from a straight m) unless anyone knows if there are any SMTA rear tank supports available. If I do have to drill the holes they will be covered by the reservoir when I restore the tractor.
As for condition. Mine is on the low end of SMTA's. I bought it from my father in law and he said "Never pull this lever back" something about they took it to a mechanic when he was a kid and he did something to make the TA work, but the TA was inoperable and bad things would happen if you ever tried to use it. PS - Any tips on what may have been done or what may happen would be appreciated too! :) The sheetmetal is beat up, but salvageable (big round out in the hood where the manifold was broke too long) grill pushed in like normal (but the insert is there!) I am still proud of it and that is all that matters to me.

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Armand Tatro

02-20-2007 18:10:25




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 Re: SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal in reply to sflem849, 02-20-2007 13:01:20  
I assume you have a good=running SMTA. If that is the case that tractor is a clasic and is worth at least $4000. The more factory options that tractor has the more it is worth. Anything you remove subtracts from its value. Do not remove anything! Armand



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City-Boy McCoy

02-20-2007 15:47:36




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 Re: SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal in reply to sflem849, 02-20-2007 13:01:20  
You are probably shrewd to be cautious about messing with a good running rare model tractor. (I have a mental image.)



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glennster

02-20-2007 14:36:37




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 Re: SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal in reply to sflem849, 02-20-2007 13:01:20  
i dont think the spacer you have off the m has the same bolt pattern on the top two bolts as the the pump on the mta. you will need to get one off a superm. the front covers are different.its a little tricky to get the distrbutor timed again as you are going to seperate the dist from the pump, and then the pump from the tractor, transfer the timing gear, and then get it all lined up again. the best source would to pick up a repair manual and follow the instructions.

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sflem849

02-20-2007 18:59:36




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 Re: SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal in reply to glennster, 02-20-2007 14:36:37  
In the manual they talk about marking the pump w a chisel to be sure to align it again, but in removing the pump you would loose one of your marks. The M I got the part off caught on fire and I wasnt able to tell if it was a straight or a SM. If I was smarter I would have looked at the battery box. I got it from Jackaels in Fort Atkinson, WI and they had a ton of M/400/450's. I hope he is friendly enough to let me trade in the one I have if it is incorrect.

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D Slater

02-20-2007 20:10:53




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 Re: SMTA Hydraulic Pump/Reservoir Removal in reply to sflem849, 02-20-2007 18:59:36  
Rear support for MTA without hydraulic would be like looking for a needle in haystack.They are something like a M or SM support and bolt in same place on top cover. At top a metal strap extended far enough forward with a hole to line up with gas tank stud then was bent to go back down to support at a angle as a brace.If you could find one from a Stage 2 without live hydraulics and modifiy to work it would have the bracket for starter and choke rod on it.If not a M would do. The distributor drive housing you need will be found on some 50 model M and 51 through 450 gas if not equiped with pump. The housing will have # 354951R1 on it if memory is correct. There's a position that distributor drive is supposed to be set, but it realy doesn't matter on getting in time as most are not set that way any more.after removing distributor cap all you need is to mark which dirrection rotor is pointing and never move engine while apart.After removing dist. from back of pump notice which way slot is pointing and try to put dist. drive housing in with slot as close to same dirrection as was. Next put dist. on and see if rotor lines up to mark on body you made. If its off very mutch you can remove and pull the T shaped gear driving dist and move it ever how many teeth it takes to get rotor back to mark. At last to get exact you may have to loosen 2 clamp bolts and fine tune dist. housing. When you switch gears and shafts they usualy don't line up exact same without turning dist. body some. One other tip the lower inside bolt that you are using to bolt drive housing to front cover, make sure its not to long as it will contact cam gear on inside if so.

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