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Case 1450 dozer advice

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mike

02-16-2003 18:01:40




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going to look at 1450 case dozer. approx. 1975 model need to know good and bad points and what problems to watch for.




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Deas Plant.

02-18-2003 04:10:45




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 Re: case 1450 dozer advice in reply to mike, 02-16-2003 18:01:40  
Hi, Mike. If you can't find 'Cat' or 'Caterpillar' badges and stickers on it, walk away. Another thing worth remembering is:
"If it's got tires or tracks, it's trouble."
After that, all you need to do is work out whether you need the tires or tracks enough to put up with the trouble.
Case 1450's did have some rear end problems. Best way to avoid them is to NOT think you've got a Cat D9 and operate it like the Case it is.
Pull ALL the dipsticks and feel the oil on them. If it feels even slightly gritty or sticky, walk away. Diesel engine oil is commonly plain black. Any gritty feel or discolouration is bad news. Smear some oil from each dipstick thinly over your finger, hold it in the light and look for any signs of metal. Iridescent oil is NOT much in fashion these days. Check the radiator water for additive and for oil. Check the batteries too. Low water level here is a sign that the current owner's maintenance may not have been as good as it could be.
Another sign is whether or not there is relatively fresh grease around the various pivot points of any attachments -- assuming there are grease points fitted.
Happy hunting. You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Max

02-17-2003 21:52:49




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 Re: case 1450 dozer advice in reply to mike, 02-16-2003 18:01:40  
Final Drives, suspension, and transmission. The final drives are a little weak if a stump ripper has been used so check the blade for mounts or welding marks that might indicate this option. The trans can be checked by applying the parking brake with the range in high and the speed in high direction in fwd. The unit shouldn't move, wthen start shift down to low track speed and then on to low range. When you do this, the crawler should just start to move until low range and then the brakes won't hold. Don't do this test with the turning brakes for those disconnect the power to that particular side of the trans. You also may have to push on the master brake pedal incase the parking lever is out of adjustment. On the suspension, look to see how low the front is. One quick check is to observe the suspension while someone else puts down pressure on the blade to raise the front of the machine, then you should be able to see some slop in it. If the suspension is working properly it helps smooth the ride out somewhat but really works by making the tracks follow the terrain better thus getting maximum traction. Another small thing I just remembered was if you can't lift the front of the machine or the front of the machine drops back down quickly after raising, then the bypass bolts are broken in the lift cylinders. This was caused by raising the cylinders to high causing the special bolt to bottom out in the cylinder. This is all that I can think of for now.

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