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CASE 450 B DOZER

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Steve

07-18-2002 19:08:45




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My transmission pressure shows low on the gage and I've changed the transmission oil filter..been searching for a trans screen but cant find one.... The trans works fine except it wont shift into the higher range of gears which I've been told is fairly common..any ideas or suggestions???




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DaleIN

07-19-2002 08:41:15




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 Re: CASE 450 B DOZER in reply to Steve, 07-18-2002 19:08:45  
Steve, the only screen is in a canister beside the starter, it has an 1.25" hose going to the charge pump. Is your trans pressure low all of the time, or just in high? How's the converter pressure? Let me know if you need any parts. Dale



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Steve

07-19-2002 12:45:51




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 Re: Re: CASE 450 B DOZER in reply to DaleIN, 07-19-2002 08:41:15  
Yeah the mechanic that told me it was in the trans told me where it was today... Thanks Dale....I put a pressure gage on it and it runs between 180-190 at idle and between 210 and 220 at 2000 rpm....so I'm wondering if its just not a bad guage



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Max

07-19-2002 19:13:12




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 Re: Re: Re: CASE 450 B DOZER in reply to Steve, 07-19-2002 12:45:51  
That pressure, if you're checking the main transmission pressure is low, it should be 275 +/-15 psi at 2000 rpm. Whats you're stall speeds? Hydraulics should be 2000 minimum rpm and convertor should be 1830-1930 rpm (note, these are best checked in high range, high speed). I take it the the oil level is good and has fresh filters on the transmission. You may want to check the suction hose at the bottom of the trans, these used to have problems in that the hose would separate and then collapse in the ID while the OD looked fine. Then I would check the trans relief for dirt or bad seals.
Never heard of many high range problems like you mentioned but then our store mostly moved the 850's, heavy duty version of the 450 tranny. Good luck hope you get it running in tip top shape soon.

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Steve

07-19-2002 19:36:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: CASE 450 B DOZER in reply to Max, 07-19-2002 19:13:12  
My mechanic skills stop shortly after changing a fan belt...I've had the suction hose off on the bottom when I was looking for the screen and it seemed fine the only thing was I couldnt remember if the tube was up or down when I went to put it back on so I put it turned down...can you tell me where the pressure relief valve is on the trans? and if the pressure can be turned up..the problem with the high range is the shift lever wont move and I dont know what you mean by stall speed...thanks Steve

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Max

07-20-2002 08:19:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: CASE 450 B DOZER in reply to Steve, 07-19-2002 19:36:32  
You got the tube back in correct for it always goes down. On the linkages, I always used to get away with pulling the clevis pins, clean, lubricate, and reinstall with good results. I used to reinstall with neversieze. Stall speeds, the best way to describe it is first you check the high idle speed with all controls in neutral and this should be around 2130-2170 rpm, then you hold the hydraulic control until the cylinder bottoms or extends out on the tilt circuit for dozers and bucket dump for loaders. Now the rpm should drop to 2000 rpm. Note; this should be done with the hydraulic oil at normal operating temperatures of around 150 degrees, warm to touch on the metal hydraulic lines. Then with the trans in high/high, parking brakes on, the engine should only rev to 1830-1930 rpm. Then if you should put the same hydraulic circuit over relief again with transmission stalled, the rpm should drop to 1180-1380 for loaders and 1380-1580 for dozers. During this part of the test, I would also have the main transmission pressure port tested. You should notice a slight drop in pressure but then the pressure should go back up to where it was at neutral +/-15 psi. I take it that you have checked the pressure at the top port of the transmission control valve on top of the transmission. You can tee into each clutch pack port and at low then high idle you may see a difference of pressures which would indicate either a leaking clutch pack or seal rings under that cap. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a broken sealing ring under the cap and fix it but that was rare. If you take the caps off, don't loose those shims, those control the end play in the clutch pack shafts. I used to use Hydraulic loctite to seal the shims and prevent leakage there. The only safe way to check these transmissions though is with a flow meter. That way you can pinpoint the leak whether it be a clutch pack, PTO clutch pack, or even a control valve gasket. That transmission is simple but is very detailed when servicing. I used to use the 850 service manual for overhauls since the 850 had tighter tolerances for the same transmission. Hope I didn't confuse you to much.

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