if it were mine,,. 1st drain the oil from clutch ,,. Most modern DC owners dont know to do this when changing oil then pour a couple quarts of diesel fuel in there and watch what come out thru the drain . i would spray a half can of brake parts cleaner at the clutch thru the bell housing square holes ,then add THREE quarts of hydraulic oil in the clutch housing . replace all covers and start the engine... do not over rev the hydraulic oil is mixing with the engine oil and reducings its vicosity . when the clutch starts working ,. if the engine is not worked hard all would be ok for 5 hours of work to allow the clean up of the engine and clutch , THEN Block the clutch , If FOOT CLUTCH , if not simplystart in 1st gear and drive around a bit in open field,. avoid the idea of road gear , it wont spin any faster in the clutch housing..
when changing oil make sure you drain filter and clutch housing .if You use any LUCAS or similar additive to oil .. KEEP in Mind it will create a stiky on the clutch that promotes a stickiy clutch I still USE lucas oil stabilizer in my wet Clutch tractors
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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