JD don't know for sure but I'm thinking that when Deer designs something that has some type of filter their engineers know what the max PSI is plus just how much flow a filter has to have at the end of it's life to work and then buy accordingly. If an aftermarket filter allows bigger particles to pass through the systems it's bad as we all know. If it stops more that the OEM then it may restrict flow to the point of damage. That means that the OEM filter is most likely better than something like Fram but not as effective as another brand but meets both specs of size and life. If using a smaller micron filter it may require changing more often than OEM. So the "better filter" may remove more and small stuff but isn't meeting flow specs.
As far as hard parts are concerned for equipment I think most often you are right, OEM is the way to go. The biggest exception would be in internal engine parts. Some after market engine kids are just fine but I would be real careful about tranny or hydraulic parts. Few years ago I rebuilt an Onan CCK twin air cooled engine. I check prices with Onan (OUCH!!!) Sealed Power (OUCH again) at a parts store then was talking to a retired JD mechanic who told me to check with JD as they had used some Onans in garden tractors. Low and behold they had the best prices by far! About 1/2 of Onan and 2/3 of the parts store prices.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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