We put up electric tape two years ago, and it works great. We used Horseguard tape, which is more expensive than what you find in stores, but it's much better quality. Here's there website: http://www.horseguardfence.com/index.php
We used three strands, at 22", 36", and 54", and I use a 1.5 joule low impedence charger. I used 4" wood posts for their paddock where they winter, and T-posts around the pasture. I spaced the posts about 15 ft. apart (2 1/2 T-post lengths.) Very easy to install. The insulators are expensive, but tensioning the tape is very easy. One thing I found is that the corners still need to be braced well, as 3 strands of tape will have enough tension to start tipping the corner posts if they're not braced. The tape is easy to use for separating areas of pasture too. We use a single strand to rotate grazing, and they respect it.
The tape is 1.5" wide, so it's easy for them to see, and a strong charger is necessary so the first zap they get sends a message. After a strong zap to the nose, they won't test it again. Seems weird to fence in 1100 lb. animals with tape, but it's all psychological with horses. I've seen our mare chase the gelding toward the fence, and he will spin around and do anything he can to keep from touching it. Even a snapping twig that sounds like the zap from the fence will make them jump back.
I use 4 wires of high tensile for our cattle, but I don't like it for horses, as it's too hard for them to see the wires. They can hurt themselves bad if they run into the wires. 2"x4" woven wire would be good for a smaller paddock, but do not use 4"x4", as they can get a hoof caught in it.
DO NOT USE BARB WIRE!!! Horses will find ways to hurt themselves that you could never imagine, and barb wire is an expensive accident waiting to happen. Barb wire requires animal contact to send the message, basically push on the fence until you hurt yourself. You don't want them pushing on the fence at all. Also, DO NOT MIX BARB WIRE AND ELECTRIC! They could get tangled in the wire and get zapped while they struggle to get free.
A few other things to keep in mind:
Set up a paddock approx. 100'x100' separate from the rest of the pasture, where you can keep the horse in when you need to, and to have a shelter. Go slow on putting them out on grass, a few hours at a time. Overloading on lush grass can cause founder. They don't need any grain, just hay and salt, and possibly a mineral supplement depending on hay quality. Figure 1/2 bale of hay per day per horse in winter.
Horses need companions, so you will need to get two. If feeding one, not much more trouble to feed two. Plus, you will learn alot about training them by watching how they interact. Training must be black & white, no question of who's the boss. Have an area for ground training, and spend at least as much time ground trainging as riding. Highly suggest riding lessons once a week, and learning proper ground training techniques. Clinton Anderson has great DVD's for learning how to train horses to respect you.
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