Dennis, I saw your questions on the previous post. I'll try to comment on the level knobs and adjustments, altho I've never used that exact instrument.
The knurled part around the eyepiece will adjust the focus of the crosshairs. You set it to your eyes and shouldn't have to fiddle with it any more, unless it gets bumped or someone else uses it.
The knob on the right side of the barrel should be the focus adjustment. You'll likely use it on every shot.
The four capstan screws located axially around the barrel are the crosshair screws. I recommend you don't mess with them. In 35 years of using surveying instruments, I've never seen the need to fool with them.
The knob directly below the eyepiece and pointing in toward the center of the instrument is the motion lock knob. Loosen it to the left to make large changes in the direction you want to look. Lock it back down when you get close, and then use the slow motion knob right beside it to zero in on the rod.
The four knobs near the bottom are the leveling screws. When you turn them, one must extend while the other shortens. Turn the barrel of the instrument so the level bubble is over two of the leveling screws and level it in that direction. Then turn the barrel and do the same with the other two leveling screws. Probably will have to do this again both directions for good level. The leveling screws should never be forced, but must be snug. Forcing them could warp the base plate, and too loose will allow the top to "flop". A little tip - as you level the instrument, the bubble will move the same direction as your left thumb.
It looks like there might be a degree plate right below the barrel yoke, and if there is, there should be a plumb bob hook dangling from the underside, seen after you unscrew the instrument from the storage base.
A surveyors level is most accurate if you take balanced shots. ie - set the level in the center of the work area. To check the bubble accuracy, simply level the instrument and rotate it to various positions - it should remain level anywhere you turn it, but the round nuts at the ends of the level vial may be turned if adjustment is needed. They are lock nuts, and usually a tool that looks like a small pin is inserted in holes in the sides of the nuts. I've used a small nail - the tool is easy to lose.
Also - some instruments have a tiny protective sliding cover over the eyepiece. A tiny pin slides the cover open. I don't think this particular instrument has that feature, but it may. Several people over the years have thought they bought defective instruments because the cover was closed and the sight tube was therefore "dark". Also - the crosshairs can be thrown out of focus so much that it appears they are "gone". You'll see this a lot at auctions - I guess someone wanting other prospective buyers to think the instrument is defective? There I go again assuming the worst. . .
I'm thinking you have already figured out most everything about it - sorry for the long post - hope it helps.
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