When you put new metal onto new metal, even though you add some oil to slickum things up, there is friction. Friction manifests it'self as heat. The heat is the problem with a new engine.

You want to "wearin" the new surfaces but don't want to have a metallic meltdown in the process.

So basically, you work it to get stress on the metallic interface, and rest it to let it cool. Then repeat for the first few hours. Change the oil and filter, and you ought to be there.

The engine temp is sorta a gauge, but it is measuring coolant temp, not combustion chamber temp. So I wouldn't run it up to the red before I backed off and let it rest (remove the load but keep it running, or let it idle for a few minutes after a runup).

I've never had an engine that was a problem to break-in. I'd get it running, checking everything, getting valves adjusted and things like that, then run it up to half throttle, and hold it for a few seconds, and back to idle. Do that a few times and run it up to 3/4 rpm and hold for a few seconds, and back off. And after about about a half hour of that (watching the coolant temp) I run to full rpm's for a few seconds. Do that a few times.

Then I just go about my business, but keep a light load on it for another hour, keeping an eye on temp. Then, with a load, run her up a few times and consider it done.

If you don't break it in properly 2 things will happen.

1. As mentioned yesterday, you will have a Chernoble; piston/ring metal will deposit on cylinder walls, like in liquid form.

2. The other side is not enough work and the rings don't seat. Problem with that is not "Ivan the Terrible", just means performance may be off a tad and it may burn a tad of oil. Sooner or later they will seat.

Good luck,

Mark

Follow Ups:

Thanks for your help! CathySD 09:04:38 09/09/04 (2)
- Re: Thanks for your help! txblu 10:02:39 09/09/04 (1)
  - Re: Thanks for your help! JDB1951restore 10:35:46 09/09/04 (0)

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