I am not sure what you are referring to as epoxy filler but assuming it is what I would call a two-part surfacer it would depend on how much leveling needs to be done. On the small parts where waves and unevenness is not usually a problem sand by whatever means suits you and finish with 400 grit if doing it by hand 280 on a D-A. Sheet metal is an entirely different animal. If you use decent paint and do a good job of applying it waves and wrinkles will stick out like a sore thumb. On sheet metal, all sanding from this point forward needs to be done with semi ridged to ridged backing, defiantly not the place for your angle grinder and flex backing. If the surface is very close to final form then you can block sand by hand, if not it will be a very slow process done manually. At this point I usually "rough in" my final sanding with a dual action sander (D-A)and 180 grit, areas that need to done by hand are done with 220. Even with a D-A a person needs to be care so that you don’t create waves in the surface. I do all my final sanding by hand with 320 and hard backing and do it wet. The water will make the surface real slick when combined with the surfacer dust thus ripples and waves can easily be felt. Feeling for waves is much easier and better than looking for them. Any that can be felt will really stick out if a glossy paint job is applied. Block sanding or blocking out as the trade calls it is pretty entailed to explain here but basically you sand the surface in long strokes in two different directions. This would be easy on a flat surface but gets a bet complicated on most tractor hoods. I suggest that you purchase an auto body refinishing book. They are not very expensive at places like AutoZone and will explain the process fully and have pictures

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