Posted by GlenIdaho on February 21, 2008 at 09:25:07 from (70.103.24.6):
In Reply to: Ag green paint ?? posted by 6030MATT on February 20, 2008 at 18:26:14:
Matt;
Some say that 90% of any good paint job is the prep work. You need to have a clean surface with all grease, wax, or loose paint removed. You will need to scuff the surface, feather any edges so the paint will blend and adhere to the surface. An automotive type wax/grease remover should be used to insure the surface is clean and ready for paint and then followed by a good primer compatible with your top coat.
I prefer to remove most of the parts so I can get around all surfaces. To me you just end up with a nicer paint job. Please don't consider this to be all inclusive concerning prep. it's just basic. Do some research or talk to the man at a local auto paint store. They a generally very helpful.
With that said, I have heard the JD paint is a good paint. One gentleman states that is all he uses for his show tractors.
A word of CAUTION. If the hardner you use has Isocyanates in it,you must use a supplied air system as it is very bad for your health. This includes eye protection as it will enter your body via the mucas membranes.
If you have never used a HVLP you should do a search of the archives for painting tips from the experts. I have found them to be very helpful. A properly adjusted gun is important for good application. Here's some tips that was sent to me from a friend for your gun and adjusting it properly. Hope they help.
"Few tips. Dissassemble the gun, I'm also referring to the cap, needle and seat. On my Sata, the air cap on front unscrews by hand, then a tool is used to unscrew the needle seat. It's the part that has the hole the needle tip sits into. also unscrew the needle adjustment knob and remove the needle and spring. Clean the needle itself. Inside the gun, material that wasn't flushed out can built up. get some little gun cleaning brushes and you may need a small awl to try and pick out some of that residue material. Use clean up grade lacquer thinner for gun cleaning. I buy it by the 5 gallon can at the paint store(about $30). I use an empty 5 gallon lacquer thinner can with a funnel to dump my waste. Solids settle to the bottom and I use the used solvent to start the burning pile. I also recommend using blue Nitrile gloves when handling solvent etc. Lacquer thinner will attack them, but not nearly as fast as latex gloves which will instantly dissolve. Adjusting a gun is relatively easy once you know what to look for. 1. Air pressure. Make sure your supply pressure is set at the factory recommended pressure. Now adjust the needle so that it allows you to squeeze the trigger fully. For the air adjustment on the gun, fill your cup partially with some lacquer thinner. Squeeze the trigger and adjust the air flow. Watch the spray coming out, you can see as you adjust the air flow when it is too much and forcing the thinner out and trying too hard- not smooth flow. Conversely when it's too low, it's not smooth either. You want to find that "happy place", and it's not that hard to do simply by looking at the flow and trying to get smooth, even flow. 2. adjusting the needle is simple. All you are doing is adjusting how much material can be allowed to flow. You are adjusting how far the trigger can be pulled. If you have a very thin paint material, set the trigger at the half way point. When you get more confidence and can control how fast you move the gun, you can start to use more trigger and move faster. On thicker materials you'll open up the trigger more. 3. the last adjustment is fan control. some guns have it, some don't. It just adjusts how big your spray pattern is from a small circle up the a large fan. Remember that when it's adjusted towards the smaller circular pattern, all that same material is going to be hitting a smaller spot so you have to move faster so you don't run or you have to reduce your trigger pull. the small patterin is used for getting into tight corners, whereas the large fan is used on larger, flatter panels. I would recommend that you NOT do any spraying in direct sun. It's going to heat up panels beyond the heat range for the material. Weather(moisture) should not affect the primer or paint you are using at all. Is your supply air clean and dry? Do you have a water trap, oil trap, and regulator on your supplied air? Do you Drain the water from your compressor tank regularly? I installed some pipe fittings and a ball valve on my compressor drain for easy draining. Temperature will have an effect if you are outside of the range for these products. I would always spray between 64 and 100F tops. At these extremes though, you should be using appropriate temperature range reducers(if the material calls for reducer)."
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