You really can't go by elapsed time, especially in my case where I paint outside and have to work around the weather. I sandblasted that fender the first part of April. It was too cold at the time to do any painting. That's why I used the Picklex20 - to keep any flash rusting away until I could get to prime it. Normally, when I sandblast a part I will not bother with the Picklex but will epoxy prime immediately - certainly the same day. The temperature stayed cold for most of April and I couldn't do much more until May. During much of May it was either too wet, too cold, too windy or too buggy. I had to pick days that were favorable to painting while also being limited by specific time windows between epoxy and surfacer and between color and clear. It was early June before I completed the fender. If I had been using a heated paint booth, the whole thing could have been done in a few days, even with my part-time, slow work practices. The biggest effort was in dealing with the pitting. It was deeper than I had anticipated the ability of the surfacer to easily correct. I should have used the finishing putty all over instead of just in the worst areas. If I had done that I could have saved several coats of surfacer and some hand sanding with only a little additional power sanding of putty.

Even with a good, heated paint booth however, the preparation is more than 95% of the effort, assuming no disasters during paint application. The actual application of color is measured in minutes. Applying three coats of color to that fender, including the inter-coat flash times, took less than 30 minutes total.

Rod

Replies:

Re: re. Painting a Fender (for Rod (NH)) tstex2 04:39:58 01/23/07 (0)

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