Posted by Superturbodiesel on November 24, 2009 at 08:07:25 from (69.207.64.47):
In Reply to: Multi-power question posted by Bill U. on November 20, 2009 at 07:29:29:
Alan K said: (quoted from post at 03:10:26 11/24/09) I have to shift the ampli-torque to low range on my M670 Super MM for easier shifting so I know what you are referring to. I have noticed something similiar on my cousins 1850 Oliver with hydra shift (underdrive). It keeps your hands busy sometimes but you get used to it. Were any of the problems with Multi-power hydraulic most of the time or something else? I know on my 670 MM the oil has to be warmed up or it will slip and will wear out faster.
Honestly, I've only run into one problem on a MF Multi-Power unit, and that was when it developed an internal hydraulic leakage problem. (The entire tractor was pretty tired, so it was no real suprise.) Remember, as with any clutch pack system, they are a wear item and they all will eventually wear out sooner or later. From my experiences, they are pretty darned reliable overall. Multi-Power units can last a very long time or a shorter time based upon how often they are used, how and when they are shifted, and how well the maintenance on the fluids and filters is kept up.
I myself have had (3) MF tractors with Multi-Power transmissions over the years. (2) MF 285's and (1) MF 1105. All were great tractors and I never had a problem with the Multi-Power on any of them.
Wet clutches do significantly outlast dry clutches due to their ability to run cooler, and better "removal" of the debris (generated from the clutch discs) via the tranny oil and filter. Of course, you should keep your fluids and filters changed at the recommended intervals in order to keep everything working as it should.
Sounds like on your MM Super 670, you might have too heavy a viscosity of oil in the tranny/clutch packs. Perhaps you are running old & dirty fluid, or just the wrong type of fluid. That is not good, and I would recommend changing it to an oil that doesn't need "heated up" in order for your the Ampli-Torq to work properly. Also, when was the last time all of your filters (and screens) have been changed and/or cleaned (if applicable)?
It's also possible that your Minne-Mo is just getting "tired" and the clutches are wearing out, leading to slippage and also leading me to believe it's nearing time for a new/rebuilt Ampli-Torq.
Sounds like DavidP from South Wales knows what he's talking about. I'd recommend using his "test" method on the MF 180 that you are interested in buying. You will then know the condition of the Multi-Power.
Oh, and if there are no hills around where you are with your potentially "new-to-you" MF 180 to test on, then here's my "method" of testing the Mult-Power out:
Drive along in 2nd or 3rd gear, high range. (Yes this is a "fast-speed" test, so please be careful, and give yourself PLENTY of room to do this. You may have to do it on the local roadway for smoothest operation and best "feel".) Now, I suppose there's no reason you can't do this in the slower gears as well, but I personally prefer to do it in the higher gears, for a more significant "feel" of what is going on with the Multi-Power unit.
Ok, so you are now traveling along at a pretty good clip, 3rd gear, say @ around 2,500 rpms. Now, bring the throttle back down to idle quickly and as the tractor is throttling down, you should feel the tractor "free-wheeling" or "running" (as DavidP, stated). As the tractor is returning to idle, move the Multi-Power lever to high and begin to throttle up the tractor again. (You want to move the Multi-Power to high BEFORE you get all the way down to idle, otherwise, the engine will be forced to sustain a heavy surge of "braking" load to attempt to slow the ground speed.) That is both hard on the tractor and hard on you, as it can literally "throw" you forward towards the steering wheel.
I'd say probably around 1,500 rpms would be a good place to "throw her into High" as she's slowing down towards idle. There really is not "set speed" that you have to worry about. Truth is, I'm guesstimating, as I rarely look at the tach when I'm shifting, I do it all by the "sounds" and the "feel" of the tractor.
Anyhow, once you are in "high" of the Multi-Power, you can throttle up the tractor and get zipping along. When you slow the throttle, you will feel the engine braking the tractor quite well, assuming that the Multi-Power is working and that the motor isn't a worn-out pile with no compression (LOL). You can shift back out of "High" back to "Low" at any time.
When shifting back into "Low", you should instantly feel a loss of speed (almost as if you briefly pushed in the clutch). Now when you throttle up or down the rpms, there will be no engine braking, and the tractor will "roll along" at what ever speed it wants to when you throttle down from higher rpms.
Depending on where your engine rpms are at as you make the shift from Low to High on the Multi-Power, the tractor will either "buck" a little and immediately begin to slow down with the engine braking, or it will "surge" a little and begin to accelerate quickly due to the 33% increase in speed that the Multi-Power provides. (We called it the "turbo-boost" lever when we were kids - LOL.)
Once you "learn" your tractor's "happy zone" of shifting - (as I call it), you can shift the Multi-Power in and out pretty smoothly by simply changing your throttle (engine rpm speeds). This just comes with practice. In turn, you will not be thrown from your seat and also not "beat up" on the clutches, tranny, and engine.
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