Case 1030 JD 750 Drill - Open Center Valve Kit

THaden

Member
My father just purchased a JD 750 No Till Drill with yetter markers & hyd seed auger. The drill has the constant hyd down pressure (newer style)The tractor is open center and the drill is set up for close center. There supposedly is a kit to convert the drill to open center.

What is involved in converting and what does the kit consist of?
Mabe we have parts already that can be used?

Anyone ever use a 1030 on that drill? Does it handle it OK, Does the hyds overheat? We plan on putting a temp gauge o the tractor hyds to be sure. If all else fails. we will use the Case 2390.

Thanks
TH
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Boy,does THAT ever bring back memories of what started all the anamosity between me and the Deere dealer here. There was an open center kit for the auger on the JD 700 grinder mixer too and I wanted one so I could grind with my Oliver 1850 when my closed center tractor was tied up. All the darned thing is,is another valve that goes in ahead of the closed center so the oil will bypass back to the tractor when the need for oil to the driven device stops or slows down,that's all,one valve.
You'd have thought I was trying to hold them up with a shotgun the way I got treated. Got a huge speach about how $193 was a lot of money,how there was only three left in the country and they didn't know what I was gonna do if something happened to that one. Then the big one with the parts mamager saying "why don't you just keep doing what you've been doing".
Hope you have better luck than I did.
 
He finally gave in and ordered it for me. When he told me there were still 3 available and that they were only $193,I wasn't leaving without it.
Have you checked with Deere? I don't don't think there would be any more to it than a flow control valve that goes in ahead of or in place of some valve that's on the drill now. Like I said,it just has to let the oil bypass back in to the tractor instead of building so much pressure that it opens the tractors internal bypass. That was the trouble I had with the Oliver on that grinder mixer. The closed center speed control that was on the grinder didn't have a bypass and wouldn't allow a full flow from the tractor so the oil got hot.
 
I have rented a 750 and the newer type 1590 ? John Deere no till drills from the county ASC office and run them with an open center 1466 IH. There is a pressure gauge on the drill and I just bump the lever a couple times a round to keep the pressure where it is suppose to be. It seems to keep good down pressure without having the lever engaged all the time. Not sure that is proper procedure, but it seems to work that way.

The drill I rented was a 15' with the front dolly wheels. It was a fair load full of seed and the dolly wheels would bog in the mud, but all in all it worked good. If yours doesnt have the dolly wheels you will definately need some more weight in the front of your tractor. I have never pulled a 20' so if that is what you have I think you would be better off pulling with the 2390.
 
Moline_guy

Our 750 is a 15' with dolly wheels. Bumping the lever might be an option. I called the local Deere Dealer and they are going to get back to me on the kit.
 


If I remember right you have that 1030 turbo charged, so with the 15' you should be good to go. In normal conditions they pull good, its just if your fighting wet spots, the dolly's will push mud, but other than that they do a real nice job. Good luck with it.
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Here is the bundle number you would need. It allows the system to dump pressure from one end of the cylinder to the other while maintaining the set pressure. This way you will not bend the opener arms. DO NOT TRY TO RUN WITHOUT IT!!! If you do and run over a hump or headland the openers on the high spot will try to carry the whole drill weight. I have seen bend arms and busted opener frames by not using the open center kit. When you use an open center tractor on a 750/1560/1590 drill it will not maintain the constant pressure on changing ground contours. You go over a hump the system will dump the oil if it goes over the set pressure. Then you will need to activate your SCVs after you are over the hump to recharge the system pressure. If your ground is fairly level it is not very hard to get used too. If you leave it engaged all of the time it will over heat the tractor hydraulics.

Open center hydraulic check valve: BN280593

This pilot-operated check valve traps oil to opener cylinders, maintaining preset position when tractor valve is neutralized.

Required if drill is to be connected to tractors with open center hydraulic system. May also be used with closed center hydraulic systems.
If tractor valve is not neutralized on open center tractors, damage to tractor will result (heat buildup in the hydraulic system).
Kit includes check valve, pilot line, and necessary hydraulic fitting for installation.

Bundle No. BN280593 Open center hydraulic check valve for single placement drills

I do not have the current price of the kit. The number is out of my drill setup manual.
 
(quoted from post at 15:58:48 04/26/11) My father just purchased a JD 750 No Till Drill with yetter markers & hyd seed auger. The drill has the constant hyd down pressure (newer style)The tractor is open center and the drill is set up for close center. There supposedly is a kit to convert the drill to open center.

What is involved in converting and what does the kit consist of?
Mabe we have parts already that can be used?

Anyone ever use a 1030 on that drill? Does it handle it OK, Does the hyds overheat? We plan on putting a temp gauge o the tractor hyds to be sure. If all else fails. we will use the Case 2390.

Thanks
TH
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a38738.jpg

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b]
I have a new open center kit for a JD 750 drill if you would be interested.
 

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