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Delco Remy Cs130

F

farmer boy

Well-known Member
I wired this alternator up to a tractor in place of a 10si. Things lined up and I started the tractor it put out about 16 volts so I put on some lights and it just died. Can"t figure it out. They"re internally regulated, right? I have wire (S) doubled back and have (L) hooked to the key with a light inbetween it and the key switch. It has the same pulley as the 10si that was on there.
 
I should add that with the multi meter set to 200 , I got 36.2 for resistance. What I found on the internet, it said you needed a minimum 35 ohms of resistance on that line. It's an 85 amp alternator with a max of about 45 amp of load on it.
 
WHERE were you measuring the voltage... at the alternator or at the battery?

If you are reading that at the ALTERNATOR it MAY indicate a poor connection or "open" between the alternator and the battery.

Furthermore, with a decent battery fairly well charged when you started, even WITHOUT the alternator working it shouldn't "just die" when you turn on some lights. Look how long your car or truck battery will operate the headlights without the engine running.

Check your battery and ALL electrical connections/wiring between the battery, loads (lighting and ignition) and the alternator.
 
The battery isn't charged well at all. ALL wiring but a small length from the battery to the starter is new. I'll recheck the connection at the battery though. I was reading it at the alternator with a multi meter and at the voltmeter in the cab. Both read the same. The alternator died, not the tractor.
 
Bob's suggestion might still be right. New connections aren't necessarily good connections.

Good example is my 1086. The alternator was acting a little funky this winter and the starter was sluggish but I was too lazy,er,busy to do something about it. Well, I did do a quick voltage check at the alternator and it read 14.2. Fast forward to a couple of days ago and the ol girl wasn't cranking very fast. So I backed her in the shop, took the floor panel out of the cab and cleaned EVERY wire, cable and terminal from the alternator to the solenoid and out to the batteries. Now she cranks like a million bucks and the alternator works fine. I don't know where the bad connection really was because everything looked OK and all connections were tight, but my half hour of work solved the problem and that's what matters. Jim
 
"The alternator died, not the tractor."

How did you know the alternator "died", then, I assume the voltage dropped? What did it drop to?
 
I was reading ridiclously high. 16 volt or so at half throttle, back it off to idle and it was about 14 volt. I flicked the lights on at 1/2 throttle and it dropped to 12, after a few minutes it went to 10. It is getting full voltage at the alt for exciting it as well as good amperage. I did an amp test on it with the multi meter and it shot up to 19.4 amp in a few seconds. I unhooked it as the max is 10a and I was well over that. Now with the tractor started it won"t go above 12V, and if you flick a few lights on it drops to 10V. I checked the bat connections and cleaned them up but no luck. Tightened the connections at the starter as well. The power for the exciting wire is coming off a relay if it matters. It is putting out the volts and amps though
 
The CS130 I'm familiar with on my Chev PU has more connection terminals. P for stator, L for idiot light, I for ignition, ands S for sensing plus the main Bat terminal. Have you got everything hooked up right?
 
WHAT are you calling "the exciting wire"... should be the feeding current to the "L" terminal through the "idiot light".

"It is putting out the volts and amps though"

NOT if it isn't charging!
 
L and I are together on the same post. Right now I have the key which turns on the relay, which goes to the idiot lamp, which goes to the alternator terminal(I and L). I only have the relay there because the key is only good for 5 amp and the fuel pump and a few other things are on it. (S) is doubled back to the output post and the output goes to the starter, which the cab(all electrical loads) attaches to, as well as the battery.
 
Not SURE this is what KILLED it, but "I" may be connected directly to the switch and "L" though a light or resistor.

I don't think it's advisable to connect "L" and "I" together AFTER an "idiot light".

If you have access to another, similar alternator, I would suggest to try using the "L" terminal only, fed through a lamp, and leaving the "I" unused.

If that experiment proves the "I" terminal IS needed to make it excite, connect it to the SWITCH side of the idiot light.

BTW, there's a dozen or so possibilities as to which regulator the CS-130's have and there are quirks as to which terminals are needed/can be safely used in certain versions. SORRY, I don't have anywheres NEAR a complete listing of all the possibilities.
 
Sorry about some of that info I gave you. L and I are not the same terminal. F and I are the same terminal(on the alternator) L is by itself and it is the one connected to the key through the lamp. (I) is not currently connected. Are you saying that both I and L may have to be connected, (L) through the light, (I) without the light. I still don"t understand what made it charge in the first place, then quit charging
 
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