2030 jd hydrolics

I have a 75 2030 that the power steering and the lift went out on. They would work if the tractor was rapped up to 1800 rpm or so and now quit working all together. I still have the remotes working fine. Any help on what to check would be appreceated. And yes it's full of oil.

"Lift" we assume is the rockhaft for the three point hitch.
Is there a loader or other aux hydraulic load(s)on the tractor?
When was the last the screen and filter were cleaned and replaced?
Open the trans oil fill port with the engine running with the rockshat lever in the "up" position. Is there oil spraying from around the rockshaft piston inside?

It's unique that SCV's work but PS & 3pt won't work. For SCV's to have psi frt hyd pump coupler is intact. How long since hyd filter was changed and trans sump screen cleaned?

I changed the filter on it but have not checked the screen. Where is the screen located? No oil spraying around the rockshaft. I remember the thing going into the shop to be fixed for this when I was a kid but don't remember the cure. ever since then the hydrolics come and go but have quit entirlynow. That's been 25 to 30 years ago.

And there is nothing on the tractor, loader etc.

The screen is in the rear of the hyd filter. It's behind a rd plug that is in the side of the trans. To see if 3pt piston/control valves are leaking one needs to remove hyd oil filler cap and look inside with a light.

Thanks for the help. I found the screen was plugged tighter than fort knox. I also have moisture leaking in to the trans. My new machine shed can't get here soon enough! I'd let it set over winter and had been rained out for a while so finnally got back to it and changed the fluids and filter, cleaned the screen and she works fine except the moisture cracked some lines. Nothing too big though. I'm posting a pick of her. I'm going to try to get paint on it this summer or fall after all other things are up to par. Thanks for the help, I appreceate it greatly. I never knew about the screen being there.

What was the screen plugged with? Was it was
clutch or brake friction material?
Worse yet mixed with a very fine metallic grey
mud? The tractor is pretty much scrap. Unless you
spend dozens of hours and spend thousands of
dollars.

STOP USING this tractor until you find out want caused the screen to plug. The most common is the brake lining material when the brakes fail. If you stop and repair the brakes right then it is not too bad of a deal. IF you keep going by repeatedly changing the filter and cleaning the screen, you will eventually ruin the hydraulic system.

Those Mannheim designed tractors work good until you mess up the hydraulics. You can cause thousand of dollars of repairs if you run it too long. The sump screen it to give you a chance to save your system. If you get the fines into the rest of the tractor it will mess up the following: 1) The priority valve will stick first, causing you to lose lift but still steer. 2) Then the SCV valves will start not holding up or down, the fines will ruin the valve seats. 3) If you still are in the race then the main pump usually will fail and that is over a thousand right now.

I have seen many go to auction because of these type of problems.

Huskers86
I think I wouldn't call the 2030 a scrap tractor just yet .That's a nice looking 2030. Instead of painting it why don't you try some compounding and waxing. That JD paint will surprise you plus you'll still have an original painted tractor that will be worth more than a repainted one.

It is important to determine what was in sump screen. If it was brake lining material then brake pads will have been deteriorating and will only get worse. I'd check the screen fairly often to determine if that's the problem

That tractor is FAR from scrap. I'm no idiot. The thing looks a little rough but runs out good. The stuff in the screen is from the pto clutch. It got water in the system and froze a few winters ago. I engaged the pto and it wouldn't go and started smokeing. I shut it off and haven't fooled with it since. I've got a son wanting to run it and mow this summer so I'm going to fix the thing up. I remember the place it takes in water so it's easy to stop. It's one of the drawbacks from them setting outside.

If there has been water in the trans/hydraulic
oil. The wheel brake, pto brake and pto clutch
friction material do break down.
If you don't replace the crumbling friction
material. The facings will continue to flake off
until metal to metal contact occurs.
Once ground up metal circulates in the system.
The tractor is very difficult, time consuming and
expensive to repair.
What kind of oil has been used in the
transmission?
Are you planning on performing a complete flush
of the steering, rockshaft, brakes and re-fill?

(quoted from post at 10:44:43 04/22/11) If there has been water in the trans/hydraulic
oil. The wheel brake, pto brake and pto clutch
friction material do break down.

Click to expand...

The amt of pad/lining deterioration depends on amt of H20 and time of use H20 has been in hyd oil.

Like I said buickanddeere I'm not a complete idiot. I know the effects and what to fix. Oh and money is not a problem for this project. The tractor has paid for it's self over and over again.

Never said you are or were an idiot.Why so
touchy? Myself and others here are trying to keep
this nice old family heirloom running strong &
reliable for the next generation.
If you don't like what I'm saying listen to
txjim. He and myself may like to give each other a
jab or two or three or more, but he is rarely
wrong.

It's just that if these hydraulic systems go too
far it's a lot of time and money to repair a 36+
year old tractor.
See it at dealership, consignment auction sales
and here on this site all too often.
Without any "warning" somebody's tractor has
grey material in the screen & filter. Then the
filter emergency bypass valve opens to provide
some steering & brakes for driver safety.
Now the hydraulic system is filled with
abrasive metal particles.
If the trans screen has been plugged once
recently and perhaps years ago. The friction
material must be getting thin and weak.
You may well get away with just clean trans oil
and run for another 36 years.
To the other extreme of a front pump, trans
pump, remove and flush the oil cooler ad oil
tank.Disassemble and flush the power steering. Disassemble and flush the brake cylinders. Replace
wheel brake friction material and disks. Replace
pto brake. Replace pto clutch. Take the trans
apart and flush everything. Take all hydraulic
lines and valves off and flush. Then rebuild what
is scored.
Odds are your tractor will be somewhere in
between the two extremes.
b.t.w. If the coolant hasn't been changed for a
while. The corrosion inhibiter's will be depleted.
Deere sells a strip dip test kit for a few bucks
to test the quality.
If the coolant corrosion inhibiter's are depleted for a few years. The engine's wet sleeves
tend to leak due to cavitation pin holes.

It just seemed that you were taking a extra jab at me. Sorry if I got too defensive. I know the problems to look for on it and will do the repairs nessesary.

Then how was it you couldn't think of or find the
trans oil filter screen?
1-800-522-7448 to replace the lost info.

O.k. you are the smartest tractor guy on the face of the earth and I know nothing and I shouldn't own one.