trailer deck ideas

Mathias NY

Well-known Member
I have a 10,000 lb capacity, 17' car hauler. The previous owner 'replaced' the wooden deck by adding a pressure treated 2x6 deck to the top of the original rotting deck. The result is a trailer that weighs over 3000 lbs empty and without ramps.

I am looking to significantly reduce the weight of the trailer. If I strip off both decks can I get away with a 1x6 pressure treated deck, if I add some additional supports? I briefly considered a steel deck, but the cost was out of my budget.
 
It would depend on the spacing of the support members. I would not want any more than 12" span with 1x6 for a trailer that has the weight of the load concentrated on such small areas, but that's just my opinion.
Zach
 
Hi Mathias!

I have a steel deck on my trailer, I saw that you already eliminated this option, however what gauge or thickness steel deck did you price?

I have 11ga as the deck for my gooseneck. It is much lighter than wood, and appears to be very stong. It does "flex" some when I drive my 7,000 lb backhoe on it. But not any sign of wear in 10 years. I've not seen a wood deck trailer last 10 years..... I think I'll easily get another 10.

Would not work for track vehicles, have had a rubber track Bobcat on there without issue. Deck is welded on all edges and spotted to the cross members.

I painted black, and mixed the anti slip ground glass you can buy in the big box stores in the paint, have had no issues with slippery or sliding. Foot or machine.

Bought 2 sheets of 11ga 4'x8' last week, $94 each. Considering the longer life I think its a better deal.

L.
 
If that is a factory built trailer then go back to what the factory put on without thinking about adding any extra supports unless you are finding rustout then it will have to be rebuilt anyway. Mine is a 7,000# and was built with either 8" or 10" pressure treated (would have to go out and measure) and it is still good after setting out for over 10+ years. Going to redo a homemade trailer with 3,500# axles with 1 1/8" thick X 5 1/2" wide deck boards and they will be on about a 2' spacing. That deck board is heavy enough for me without the extra weight.
 
doubt you will be happy with 1x6 ...end up patching lots of broken boards . 2x6or 8's will work as well as anything . Most of those trailers were built with them
 
I understand that most trailers are built with southern yellow pine decks. You don't say where you are so I don't know about availability there. I would probably use hemlock. It has lasted very well on similar applications and is way lighter than PT.
 
I put 2x10 treated on mine a few years back. Seems like that was close to 200 bucks. Its been ok but I would go with the steel if you can.
 
are you using it for cars, or hauling equipment? Crawlers are notoriously hard on whatever floor is under them. If you are just using it for a car trailer, you could probably get away with 1-1/2" white oak, which lasts a long time. That's what I'd use if I wasn't hauling heavies or crawlers.
 
If you have a sawmill in your area that can cut you some RED ELM planks I would go with them. They are strong and when they dry they are very light.
Bob
 
I guess I should have included a few more details. I am mostly hauling rubber tired tractors that weight 2000 to 7000 lbs. I will also haul the occasional piece of equipment or pallet.

This is an old u-haul trailer. It's 68" wide between the side channels and 15' longer before a 2' beaver tail. I don't remember for sure, but I think the original cross members were on a 18"or 24" spacing. When the previous owner added the second deck, it also made the deck the same height as the channels. This makes the trailer now 72" wide.

Since I want to keep this width, I'll need to add spacers anyway. It sounds like should check out the availability of rough-cut lumber around here and get a quote on some 1/8" steel plate. Would the plate need to be diamond?

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Cottonwood grows twisted and is illegal in some states as many people have been killed trying to cut it down as you never know which way it will fall. Suggest you be very careful if you go the route of cutting trees yourself.
 
And will rot in about 3 years if left in the weather.

I redid mine a couple of years ago, used 2 X 8 fir. That's what was on the trailer when I bought it, and it lasted about 20 years.

1 by is absolutely too light- you'd have to double the number of cross members, which defeats the weight saving of the flimsy lumber.
 
Why not just use treated 2x10s or 2x8s? I you have a saw mill near by you could get some rough cut lumber. I cant remember if its hemlock,?? but it makes good scaffolding planks I was told. Prolly be better of with treated wood.
 
there's a wood from south america that alot of semi's use for deck boards...it's 5/4" x 6"
sposed to be tough as nails.
i used 5/4 x 6 treated southern yellow pine on my lowboy when i built it...supports on 12" centers...supports were shelving runners my dad drug out of a dumpster at wally world...i was looking at them one day and they were rated at 1200# per foot.
trailer been on the road about 10 years now...wood still looks like the day i put it on.
 
That wood is called Apitong,hardest wood I've ever seen.Tropical oak,it is used in lowboy trailer floors for strength.
 
all responds have merit, but what would it cost, IF something breaks thru floor, to lift off trailer, or falls onto road hitting who knows what. [just something to think about when trying to save a buck]. been there/done that
 
An 11 gauge deck(1/8")will deform if there isn't enough support under it. 2x6 boards are common for trailer decking. You can use pressure treated or coat standard boards if you want it to last longer.
 

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