95 chevy wont start

Anonymous-0 · Mar 15, 2011

My 95 chevy K1500 with a 350 kept shutting off the other day but would restart. It did this several times and now it will not start. it is getting no power to the fuel pump and no spark. We can jump the relay and get power to the pump. There is also no power to the gauges. We think it is the computer what do you guys think?

Bob · Mar 15, 2011

Probably the most likely culprit is the ignition switch, a COMMON problem with that particular steering column/switch.

trucker 40 · Mar 15, 2011

Its probably the fuel pump is worn out.

Bob · Mar 15, 2011

Yeah, that must be it. He says the fuelpump runs when he hot-wires the relay, but I guess you are right... that must PROVE the fuel pump is bad. (LOL!)

krm · Mar 15, 2011

I had a 97 do that and it was the ignition switch.

K.Daddy1 · Mar 15, 2011

95 chevy's had an issue with the ignition module in the distributor. They tend to get hot and break down and will not allow current to the PCM to energize the fuel pump. Do a direct pressure test on the fuel pump shrader valve, should be at least 50-55 psi and remain fairly stabile once the key is off. Pull a plug and check for spark. If you have neither it's more than likely the ignition module. You can check to see if your getting power off the switch. There should be a white wire going to the coil which should be hot when you turn on the key switch. Will it crank over when you turn the key?

C.R. · Mar 15, 2011

sisters acted up,mice had chewed up wires to the fuel pump!

Anonymous-0 · Mar 15, 2011

The engine will turn over all day long. I tried 2 different pumps out of running parts trucks I have and a new relay so we ruled that out. Can the ignition module be replaced or does the distributor have to come out. I have a 90 and 93 running parts trucks, all have 350s, will the module out of them work? Thanks.

Bob · Mar 15, 2011

PLEASE listen to this advice to save throwing a lot of unneeded parts at it.

If the dash doesn't work, amongst the other symptoms, it's the IGNITION SWITCH.

They were a POOR design and often fail to make contact causing problems just as you describe.

WHY do some of you think the gauges would fail to work from a failed ignition module?

Furthermore, even WITH a bad ignition module the fuel pump would do it's 3-second run every time the ignition is switched on.

If the ignition switch IS working you will hear several relays behind the dashboard close when the ignition is switched to "ON", then the fuelpump relay will drop out after 3 seconds or so.

It IS possible to troubleshoot the ignition switch to verify it's bad before replacing it if you have a wiring diagram and can see what areas of the power distribution box should be powered up with the ignition "ON" and during cranking.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 15, 2011

Like many others have stated, I would start with the Ignition Switch. My 95 diesel did the same thing (lost the guages) and the switch turned out to be the culprit. This is under the dash on top of the steering column. Everybody wanted me "to bring it in and we can put it on our machine" to find out what was wrong. 80 miles to the nearest "machine"! 30 dollars and 15 minutes of time to put it on and I was ready to roll.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 15, 2011

I beleieve you are correct sir. I changed the module just because I had one here and it was easy but that was not it. I did get it stated it ran for 10 minutes and quit. No gauges, fuel pump or spark. Thank you for all of your input. I'll let you know how I make out.

Offandgone · Mar 15, 2011

I agree with Bob. I have had the ignition module go bad more than one time due to not being cooled by the heat sink, common on that engine. Never did have the dash to fail.

Frank

trucker 40 · Mar 15, 2011

He said he got power to the pump,he didn't say the pump pumped.I guess it does because he got it running,but it can still run if the pump is worn out it just cant keep up enough to keep it running.The right thing to do would be put a pressure gauge on it and see how much pressure it was putting out.

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Mar 15, 2011

Ignition switch....

omahagreg · Mar 15, 2011

My '96 Chevy was doing just that-no codes, of course! Found that they put 2 positive cables on at the battery-both of mine were corroded BADLY. One of them goes to the relays on the fender well. I tried a new battery (side post was leaking, causing the corrosion) and cleaning it up, but finally got a new cable, and now it works fine!

Bob · Mar 16, 2011

"The right thing to do would be put a pressure gauge on it and see how much pressure it was putting out."

Yep, that'll fix the dash gauges and other accessories that the failed ignition switch is not powering up!

Anonymous-0 · Mar 16, 2011

It was the ignition switch. New one is ordered but I got it riged so I can start it with a screw driver for now!

trucker 40 · Mar 16, 2011

Well good! You were right. I haven't worked on a lot of cars and pickups,mostly big trucks,and I bet I haven't replaced 3 ignition switches since the late 19070s. You would think that on a newer truck like that,that they could at least make an ignition switch that would work.
Ill bet that you can go to a junk yard and if they have cars in there from the 1950s,the ignition switch will still work. Nothing much else will probably,but the ignition switch probably will.

trucker 40 · Mar 16, 2011

Thanks for telling us what it was! Seems like that doesn't happen very often.

Bob · Mar 16, 2011

The old ignition switches had contacts that slid past each other as they opened and closed and kept them burnished clean.

On the newer GM ignition switches like Codie has someone got the bright idea to use contacts that are pressed closed by cams so there's NO cleaning action to the contacts as they open and close, and it's REAL common for them to get a little crap or oxide on them and fail to make contact, then the switch has to be replaced.

95 chevy wont start

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