tractor question.

JayinNY

Well-known Member
I want to replace both tie rod ends on my tractor. They wernt greasable, and they are a little sloppy. I was thinking of measuring the rod from left tire to right tire, so when I put the new ends on, it would be the same lenght so as not to change the toe in or out on the tractor. Anyone have any tips on how else to keep it the same? or isent it real important? Thanks J
 
I agree with your desire to keep the tie rods similar. However I would check the toe-in afterwards anyhow. 1/8" to 1/4" when measured about half way up the tire.
 
Did that with the wifes truck 2 years ago. Can't believe how spot on we got it. Wore out a set of rear tires and the fronts were still like new. I've had professional jobs done that didn't end up that well.
 
Im pretty sure they have never been changed before, so I would think they were right. I also think the front tires are original also and there not worn any.
 
Hello JayinNY,
Just count the turns, and you'll be right on!
Threads per In. with the same size, will have the same distance.
You should check the toe-in afterwads to make sure it was not out to start with.
You didn't say what size truck you are working on. If you get the toe-in at zero, it will be close on most applications, and won't hurt the tires untill you can get the alignment checked.
Guido.
 
"Just count the turns, and you'll be right on!">

That DOESN'T work 'cause the parts aren't made to an exact dimension from the start of the threads to the centerline of the tapered stud.

If the new tierod end is "from the land of almost right" it's probably even worse!

It's a MUCH better plan to check the toe-in and set it to "spec", as the other guy said, 1/8" to 1/4" IS A PRETTY SAFE BET.
 
Thank you.
I'm still trying to fing where Jay mentioned threads at all. My two AC's don't have any threads.
And I see his project turned into a truck that he might want to take to a shop and have aligned!
 
Yup, always done it this way for repairs made in the field...and where else does anything ever break?
 
Hello jayinNY,
My answer still stands!
P.S. Most applications will require some toe-in
You can do it yourself with a ruler and some help.
Good Luck.................Guido.
 
The only threads on my AC tie rods are on the tapered stud where the castle nut holds them on. As far as adjusting for wheel tread changes and/or toe in, it's a rod clamped in a tube, period.
 
Sorry guys, I had one ball joint in stock and just took a look at it, I forgot it wasent threaded. As some one said a nut and clamp must go in these grooves on the rod. So that would be much eaiser than a threaded one, and keep everything in aligment. I guess I should have looked at it before I posted a question. Thanks J
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Looks similar to MF. I helped a friend fix his 65. With those notches you definitely need some threads to adjust toe in. If I remember correctly the inner end was threaded.
 
I just checked it when I went down to the barn, yes the left side is a threaded tie rod end, its only about 4 or so inches long.
 
Junkyard ballwriter paint pen, once a day draw the paintroller over the old tie rod end, at the junction where it screws into the rod. When you can feel the paint, take it apart. Either measure, or count threads, do the same when you install the new one.
 
Nope... that's the way Ford did it. I don't know why because it sucks when you've got some slop in the axle and you can't get the toe set correctly... My old cliff jumper has two bent spindle tubes and there's no way to get her lined up right without renotching the tie rod bars.

Rod
 
Hey Rod, sitting on the tractor the left side ball joint is threaded onto a rod with notches, were the right side is the one in my above pic no threads. Im gonna measure it before I take it apart so I can make it the same lenght. JayinNY
 
Hope they are not made in Spain.
I had to make another groove in mine to get the wheels to the correct alignment.Fordson Major.
 

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