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Break-in engine oil

4

4020guy

Member
What's the theory with break in oil? I use Rotella 10W30 for the first 50 hours and then 15w40 Plus 50 Deere oil after. Winter oil is Rotella 0w40. Engine spins great in the cold. Ron
 
Aaron, quite common in Canada. All main suppliers, Shell, Esso, Petro-Can, Deere, CNH have it. It is synthenic and is suitable for all seasons. There is 0w30 as well but it is for winter only [less than 10*C / 50*F air temperature] Ron
 
The CompCams breaking oil has the phosphorus and sulphur ( I think ) that are anti-scuff additives for the correct breaking-in of flat tappet cams. Later engine with the roller cams do not need this so the additive have been taken out of most gasoline engine oils ( API SK?) because the additive when burnt in the engine will clog CAT CONVERTERS. Diesel rated oil still have these additive in them.

Kent
 
Hello 4020guy,
The lower# on the oil is used according the temperaure of the area.
The second# HAS to be the same as what the engine manufacturer specify.
Thicker oil will occupy more space then the designed clearance in the engine, not a good thing.
Guido.
 
Many of the diesel oils have enough antiwear zinc dithiophosphate and the piston ring/liner wear surfaces are hard enough that the cylinder liners might glaze rather than properly "breaking-in" leading to high oil consumption. Using a break-in oil assures this will not happen. But if you are astute enough to limit the initial no-load operation and then be able to keep maintain a significant engine load, glazing will not occur even if break-in oil isn't used. Just don't rebuild an engine and let it sit around idling for too long without load when not using break-in oil.
 
In most cases, the ring and liner/ sleeve builder will include instructions for oil type, load and rpm to seat in the engine. Can't go too far rong if you follow them to the letter.
 
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