Help! I've Got A Touchy Situation

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
I know, it's not an old tractor, but this business supports my old iron! :>)

This is a picture of the inside of a VERY spendy server here in the office.

For some reason, the hold-down loop for this heat sink has popped loose (see the other end of the retainer clip). Must have been a cold solder to start with.

I got the "eye" fished out of there without any damage, everything is running fine, but the heat sink is not 'tied down' to it's IC chip on one end. I've got the server laying on it's side so that thing somewhat stays in place.

Like I say, I could buy another TWO 150 horse tractors for what this thing cost and I don't wanna be foolin' around in there with a darned soldering iron to repair it.

Is nylon fishing line conductive? Was thinkin' about just tying that retainer wire down with a loop thru the board. Whadda think???????

Thanks,

Allan

2mh76l0.jpg
 
And your asking us???

How in the heck did you even find the problem??

If were closer tome I would loan you my cutting torch to solder it.

Gary
 
Had to put another power supply in it last week and saw this while I had it open.

Darned thing as run non-stop for 10 years now. Just an absolute work horse for us and I don't wanna loose 'er. :>)

Cold down there this morning? -2° here.

Allan
 
Had to put another power supply in it last week and saw this while I had it open.

Darned thing as run non-stop for 10 years now. Just an absolute work horse for us and I don't wanna loose 'er. :>)

Cold down there this morning? -2° here.

Allan
 
Nylon is not conductive.
When you can shut the rig down and renew the conductive paste under the heat sink/chip interface. Wipe off wipe on.

Be careful of static charge, wear a ground strap around your wrist to the chassis.

If you solder, use a low wattage iron, remember you have a multilayer board.

Check around you might be able to pick up a used MB to have as a back up.

I would consider a epoxy repair.

Your analysis of cold joint would be supported if the attachment was more mass, it would have taken the heat from the joint going through the wave solder.
 
Allan, there are thermal adheseves designed for gluing heat sinks to chips. The most common brand is called Arctic Silver.


<a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100013">Thermal Adheseve</a>.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:22 02/09/11) Had to put another power supply in it last week and saw this while I had it open.

Darned thing as run non-stop for 10 years now. Just an absolute work horse for us and I don't wanna loose 'er. :&gt;)

Cold down there this morning? -2° here.

Allan

Heck no it's nice here. Clear up to 5 degrees now.

Gary
 
Thanks Ernie,

I've got another replacement unit that's been sittin' here for the past 5 years as a backup. Brand new server, never been used.

I've ordered another set of SCSIs for the array, need to give it a good cleaning while I'm at it. Derned CPU heat sink is dirty, CMOS battery needs replaced and the air filters are probably needing attention too.

So, some Sunday morning 'bout 3am when the traffic is down, I'm gonna swap out the two servers, refresh this ol' guy and try to get another 10 years out of it. :>)

Thanks for your help Ernie,

Allan
 
Aw Ha!

That must be the epoxy that Ernie was talking about. That would sure be for an easy and quick fix!

Thanks,

Allan
 
This is odd. I just opened my computer this morning to clean and a heat sink was loose. I stuck the catch back in and put heat sink back. in about 10 seconds it pulled the catch back out. OK, I don't know if that heat sink has been loose for 8 years or 8 seconds. I just assume it has been that way a long time so I just left it loose, don't fix what is working.
 
There's probably some thermal paste between the chip and heatsink, and as long as that is intact without voids you have a good thermal path. I'm guessing the retainer is there to keep the part in its socket, so for an office-bound server in that orientation (server on its side) you'd be okay without it. Your nylon line solution would work, the only problem is that nylon is hygroscopic and not really all that dimensionally stable over a wide range of humidity and temperature. For the short length you're talking it's probably okay , but I think a better solution might be teflon insulated copper wire.
 
From the pic it looks like the retention wire looks like it is not in its slot. It probably doesn"t matter in this case since the clip is broken.
 
Hello Allen,
Get a small plastic zip tie. It should be a quick and permanent repair.
Guido.
 
Arctic Silver will not necessarily hold the heat sink in place without being clamped down. It is made to help with conduction between the heat sink and the chip, and without any thermal past on the chip, it will run too hot. As the chip heats up, arctic silver heats up as well and will become soft and allow the heat sink to slide around. I would definitely find a way to hold the heat sink down. But I would still recommend arctic silver to help keep the chip cool. It works well for what it's meant to do.
 
That isn't what their web site says.

They say it is a non-conductive epoxy designed for hi temp adhesion and whatever ya "glue" with it, will be bonded forever.

Not to be confused with their same-brand CPU electrolytic 'paste'.

Hope so anyway, 'cause I just ordered the silly stuff. Just looks to me to be the easiest way to lock this honker down. :>)

Thanks guys, I do appreciate it.

Allan
 
Alan> Not an authority but Fishing line (plastic) wouldn't conduct any electrical impulse unless the line(what ever you use) would be impregnated with Graphite. JMHO. Could check out the length used with a Volt ohm meter on continuity to make certain.
Regards LOU.
 
Hi Guido,

Yeah,

But like my original idea of tying 'er down with the nylon fishing line, it would mean that I'd have to completely disassemble this rig to get that motherboard out of the case and off it's standoffs.

Think I'm gonna go with the epoxy approach, where I can just reach in there and do it while everything is assembled.

Allan
 
Hello Allen,
Yep! you're right!.
Get some good epoxy glue, even super glue may work.
You know there are different types. Hobby shop would have it for sure.
Just watch them fingers, that super glue will put them together pretty quick.
Guido.
 
If its really a hold down, a loop, you might be able to resolder it on the other side. Should not be a conductor, except possible to a chassis ground, and I doubt that. I had the same exact problem with an HP blade server, forget the model number, but ended up getting a refurbished mother board through a California company, kinetisys.com. Of course, I don't know the cost in that it was covered by maintenance contract for a 9-1-1 PSAP. If it had been my blade server, I would've put the loop back in and tried to solder it together, but since is for 9-1-1 calls, is no way I was going out the possible liability. One thing is for sure, the heat sync goop can be purchased at Radio Shack for about $30 per tube, and you will need to clean 'er up real good before putting it bck together. I'm betting was caused by heat and stress.

Give them a call. Won't cost you anything but time for the call. They may even let you ship it to them for "Repair and Return" depending your time frame. Those guys are pretty sharp.

Mark
Toll Free 877/KINETISYS
 
Allan, Just a thought. When I worked at Dodge we used an epoxy glue that was conductive to repair rear defrosters that had opens. We used masking tape to act as a guide border so it looked like a factory job. Dealers should have it. Good luck. Gerard
 
When you glue it on, clean off the existing thermal conductive grease with a cleaner like acetone (carefully) to be sure of a bond. Put a bit of weight on it to assure a thin glue joint and close thermal coupling to the chip. It will be fine. Jim
 

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