building a 3pt bale unroller

Erik Ks farmer

Well-known Member
I stopped by the neighbors today and saw a bale unroller he had fabricated from an old cultivator tool bar, a 15 footer. I have an old 12 foot tool bar in the fence row, thinking about fixing up a similar outfit. Here is the question, I have 4x5 bales, so if I cut the bar into 4 foot sections, with 4 foot width on the 3pt and 4 foot arms on each side will I have enough clearence to unroll the bales? Also, if anyone has pictures of a 3pt unroller I would love to see them! Thanks, Erik
 
Four foot arms to the rear should be plenty long- the biggest bales are only 6 feet, so a bit over 3 feet from center is sufficient. Those arms need to be hinged, hydraulically, with spear points on the end to enter the center of the bale for it to rotate on. Can do that with one cyl with the proper configuration. Google that type of subject matter for ideas. Some units mount on pickup trucks- same principle for behind a tractor. For a comfort zone, go a bit over width on the toolbar, extend the spear length to handle a variety of bale sizes. If the toolbar is something like 5x7 cultivator bar, not some smaller solid like very earlier cultivators...should work fine.
 
make the arms that gold the bale as strong as possible, i bought an unroller, it works great, but i broke both arms inside a year! remade them using 4x4 .250 wall steel and i hope that works better than the old 3x3 .100 wall. bigger braces around the pivot pins should help too!
 
I would make it wide enough to unroll 5' bales don't know when you might need to and the arms a little over 3' to keep it closer to the tractor and not load the hinge pins as much. I built one and it works good for the last 6-7 years. If I get time I will post a photo of it.
 
There is also a powered unroller made from a combine reduction drive, spike, and hydraulic motor. A 3 point mount is welded to the case and the spike mounted to the hub where wheel was mounted. Motor drives the drive axle.
 

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