Spraying and fertilizing pasture

Looking at a possible farm to rent. I would like to know if any of you guys spray your pastures to rid out weeds and control thorn bushes and such. If you do spray what do you use? And also even though I dont have soil samples what would be an average application for N for just general pasture ground? This grass will have cattle on it.

Popular pasture product is "Grazon", a mix of 24D and Tordon. There are secveral other generic labels of it also.
You would be safe to apply about 50lbs per acre of urea, but do it AFTER you have killed the weeds. Remember weeds love nitogen also.
There is a "crop talk" forum on here also.

Gordo

Thanks Gordo

Forgot to tell you. If you are going to be spraying pesticides you should go to one of the "Applicators Schools". It's a one day seesion put on by your FSA. Free. License good for 5 years. Allows you to buy and apply anything up to Agent Orange

Gordo

The best and most economical way to control weeds on pasture is to grow more grass. I don"t know where your located but many, if not most, pastures up for rent are lime deficient. If you get the soil PH where it is supposed to be then you can grow an annual legume and cut or eliminate your nitrogen needs while improving your grazing. These days, every region of the country has many choices for annual legumes, both warm season and cool season. I have learned to spend my money on seed, lime and P & K. Other than starter for new seedings, nitrogen is the most expensive temporary fix I know of.

I may have a tad more information on your exact location so what Im including here is very location specific. As to thorn in this part of the world, good luck. About the only thing I've found to do a decent job is cold steel, every year. Hawthorn and Eastern Red Cedar are the normal native species on these hills. More adapted than grasses.

As to Tordon products, sale or use is prohibited in Kentucky except for the RTU formulation due to its extreme mobility, long residual, and toxicity to tobacco in microscopic amounts over many years.

Of the product choices, I've found 2,4-D products to be inadequate, banvel to be too expensive, and both Crossbow and Pastureguard to be both too expensive and inadequate. Mowing is also essential to control tall fescue seed heads which contribute to pinkeye. Annual or twice annual mowing will keep cedar and hawthorne in check as well as control fescue seed heads.

I much prefer clovers in pastures. You get both the nitrogen from the clover and the added benefits of reduced fescue toxicity. Nitrogen will boost yields, at rates up to 100 pounds acutal per acre. Everyone has a different break even on rate and cost as the yield curve increases at a decreasing rate. The first 50 pounds give you the most bang for your buck. But, if you dont need the extra yield for pasture or hay in May and June then its just wasted money. Its usually a better option to think about the gap where fescue goes dormant. Sudan grasses, grazing corn, alfalfa, etc all have the potential to keep forage production constant into the slump period.

Get meat goats and stock at a couple goats per acre and they'll get rid of all the bushes,briars,
small trees and multiflora rose bushes the little extra fencing will be paid for in not having to spray and the sale of goat kids.Goats for the last couple years have been selling right at twice as much per lb as calves.When you run goats and cattle together you never have to bush hog either.

I will second what LAA has said. You don't say where you are so conditions vary a lot, but golden rod is a common weed here, and bringing the pH up knocks it right back in one season.

Don't buy anything or do anything until you have talked to your County Extension Agent. Their advice is free and the most accurate.

Ive heard there is a new grazon called "grazon next" .Its supposed to do better than the regular stuff around my area.A word of warning though,many things that we consider weeds in a improved pasture ,are a big part of native pasture.Be carefull if your spraying native grass.Sideoats,bluestems ,bur and tick clovers,cheatgrass,johnson grass,even swithgrass or false redtop,are all parts of native grasses,and all together make excellent pastures.cattle will walk right through the best alfalfa field to get to them,and many are even higher in protien than afalfa.Many times you are better off mowing than spraying,because not only do you cut down weeds but remove the old growth of native grass to keep it growing and tender.just something to think about,with fuel prices so high its cheaper to spray usually,but be carefull and know for sure what you are spraying. also another thing to think about,spreading fertilizer on top of ground is generally not the best way,simply because you lose a huge majority of your nitrogen.better way is to take a heavy disc set almost straight and incorporate it in the top 2-4 inches.or if your really serious about re-doing a pasture run a renovator or field cultivateor through it.even better yet ,sow some oats and clover while your renovating.oats will pay for a lot of the renovation by giving you fast grazing,and clover will help keep grass fertilized...and my advice, make sure you get landowners permission before you do anything!you could wind up in a lawsuit,people are funny nowdays....especially when you start spraying chemicals.