Engine knock- cant find cause

JoeBob-IN

Member
Had a Case 1070 develop a knock while on an auger. When started cold knock was not noticable until engine/oil was warm. Obvious knock. 6500 hours and oil pressure was low so I thought crank bearing. New set and knock is still detected. Only now it is harder to hear and takes longer to develop than before. Thought maybe a piston pin/bushing. Can't really find any one that screams-Its me! Only thing I can think of is an out of round rod at the crank end. All cylinders were firing as far as I could tell, cold start and felt all manifold ports. Any other ideas?
 
Are you sure that it is an engine knock?? I had a 1370 with a loose flyweel sound that way. It was quite until warm. I can only guess that the trans was turning hard enough cold to make it drive smooth and then when the oil warmed up it rocked on the bolts.

This is a lnog shot. It seems that you have checked the motor bottom end out well.
 
Did you measure the journals or just throw a set of bearings at it?
Oil pressure?
Oil viscosity?
Injection pump timing? Injector condition? Dribbling injectors will make a diesel knock.
 
Conrods can"t be out of round by the very nature of the name but the crankshaft can . so What did you replace and did you do any measurements on the crank.?Use plastigauge to get the gaps according to the manufacturer.A cheap quick fix
usually turns out to be the dearest.Are your bearings the correct size.? All the parts have done the same amount of work so you could reasonably expect the same wear..
 
So how did the old bearings look? Copper showing? If so, crank may be hurt also. Did you plastigage rods and mains when you reassembled? How is your oil pressure now? Compare cold versus hot pressure idling. Mains usually give a deep knock while rods a shallower rap like knocking on a door with knuckles. Describing the knock would help. I would double check the crank. Hope this helps. Gerard
 
All the bearings looked worn, none were obviously shot. Only one just starting to show copper was a narrow main. Didn't measure anything when I had it apart the first time. The oil pressure is higher at idle, before the new bearings when hot the pressure would drop to just above the red when hot. Now there is no drop when hot. This is not a loud knock now. Before it was not loud but very obvious. Now you have to listen and it is easiest heard when you quickly throw throttle back to idle. Kinda hard to hear over the engine noise standing next to it and easier to hear in the cab. Sounds more like a door knock than a deep one but that is very subjective!
 
Why can't they be outta round? You have massive force on compression and then fire so can't that pressure cause the rod to eventually compress?
 
I just threw the bearings in. Was planning on doing it anyways as she is high houred and the oil pressure was getting low at a hot idle. Pressue is at the upper end of the gauge (no numbers just red-green-yellow) at hot idle now. Has fresh 15w-40 oil, the correct oil. As far as I know the timing is correct or at least didn't move. I adjusted it two years ago. The injectors are the only thing I am unsure about. All six cylinders did heat the manifold port roughly the excact same from a cold start. There wasn't on that lagged or was colder... using my hand as a gauge! Possible one is dribbling but nothing noticable on the piston tops says that. Still possible. Lots of carbon around most of the injector tips but I have no clue if that is normal or not.
 
15-40 is not the correct oil for a pre magnum Case, 30w is what Case still reccomends. babbit overlay on bearings is very thin so copper showing isn't as bad as some think, crack each injector one at a time and see if knock goes away
 
Had an 830 Comfort King Diesel that the flywheel came loose on, chased that knock all through the engine before I finally figured it out.Did an in frame OH about 500 hrs earlier so knew all was good.
 
My vote would be wrist pin bushing. The Oliver/Waukeshas are pretty well known for it,so I've seen it more than once.
 
You might try using a large screwdriver, wooden dowel, etc. Place one end to your ear, the other end at different places on the block. Many times you can isolate the noise and determine the exact location. I've done that a few times successfully.
C.L.
 
That is what I am thinkin but I thought I would notice it when pulling on the rods and holding the piston. Cant tell any are loose.
 
So putting in the bearings helped?It sounds like the oil pressure is better now?
If you didnt seem to say its not as loud,I would say it might be something else,like flywheel bolts or an injector or wrist pin.
You might try cracking the injector lines and see which cylinder its coming from,or if it even helps it.If you find it gets better when you crack an injector line,I would look that cylinder over good,probably pull that piston out or try and see if the wrist pin is loose without pulling the piston until I knew if that was the problem.Maybe plastiguage that rod, if that is alright, check the crank for being round on that throw.Look at the cylinder wall and see if there is a groove in it.I worked on a Cat one time that was like that and a keeper came off of the wrist pin and ruined that side of a cylinder.
Does it smoke bad?
 
If the noise gets more pronounced or louder on decel I would suspect it's rod related. If the noise is roughly the same TYPE as before but quieter, I would suspect a bearing issue and plastigage the new bearing that is downstream from the coppery main that feeds it, unless you have already done that. Gerard
 

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