Can't get it to fire

I have completely rebuilt a 1940 Farmall A engine - have it timed per manual, points set to manual, valve gap set to manual, spark tested on number 1 cylinder, which seems good- have used started fluid in #1 CYLINDER to no avail.

Any ideas on what else to try to get it to fire up!! Running out of ideas of what else may be the cause for no firing - not even a hickup.

Is it getting fuel?

Don,

Is it possible that you have the timing way off or the plug wires crossed?

With that snort of starting fluid you should have gotten some kind of firing inside at least that one cylinder even if you don't have any gasoline in the fuel tank.

Fuel
Compression
Ignition
Timing

That's all there is.

Good luck,

Tom in TN

try shooting a small amount of oil in each cyl to raise compression until rings seat. Is it possible you have the firing order wrong,or dist 180 out of time? if all else fails i would pull it.It might not be simply turning over fast enough due to drag on new bearings ,rings etc.

Don,

I just noticed that your engine has recently been rebuilt. Is it possible that the cam shaft timing relationship to the crank shaft is incorrect? You might check the valve positioning when you are at TDC of the compression cycle.

Tom in TN

at one time I had a problem with a JD gas.
The dealership sold me a keyswitch for a diesel instead of a gasengine.With a diesel switch when you turn the started no electricity goes to the coil.But when the key is back in the running position electricity does go the coil.
Good luck

If you did a total overhaul, and pulled the cam or drive gears, the valve train could be out of time.You can have the flywheel timing marks dead on and the dis/mag firing when it should, with #1 piston up but the valves although adjusted correctly are still opening and closing at the wrong time.
PS not to be a wize arz, but around here, anyone with the last name of Yoder has to put hay and grain in front of their(tractor) to get it to Fart. LOL

When you timed it, did you make sure that you had the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke? It"s a four stroke machine so it fires on every other revolution so you can have the timing mark correct but be on the exhaust stroke. You have to time on the compression stroke.

Are you sure the firing order is correct?

What"s the spark look like. It should be FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, the color of lightning. if it"s yelowish or reddish or even blue, that"t not a good spark.
What condition is your distributor? Check for bushing wear by getting the points closed and pushing radially (from the side) at several different directions watching the points. ther eshould not be any motion. if you have a dial gauge, the tolerance is something like 0.002".

Run some paper between the points; they may have a film on them.
With the ignition ON, check to make sure that you have battery voltage at the battery side of the coil with the points closed and near zero volts on the distributor side of the coil. If you don"t have battery voltage on the battery side look for a bad connection or high resistance between the battery and the coil. If you don"t have near zero on the distributor side, you don"t have a good ground.

Is the rotor turning sometimes the gear in the dist is bad Between the dist and where it bolts to the engine.

Pull No1 sparkplug near the radiator and bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Hold your thumb over the plug while a helper hand cranks the engine. Once you feel the pressure against your thumb drop a long plastic
straw on top of the piston and you watch the straw rise as your helper slowly cranks the engine and when your straw quits rising remove the cap and see where your rotor is pointing. Your timing marks should now be aligned and both valves on No1 cylinder should be closed. Your rotor should be at the No1 plug tower and other plug wires in this firing order. Hal

2-1
4-3 The rotor rotates CW.

Do you have a distributor or a magneto? Hal

(quoted from post at 18:17:41 12/29/10) Do you have a distributor or a magneto? Hal

Click to expand...

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=693601

check to see if spark is coming out cap bad cap or rotor

Found this out the hard way. Built my Dad's Jubilee engine back when I was young, old mechanic came by, pulled it 10 feet and it was running!!

How long from the time you installed pistons and rings until you tried to start it? Did you oil the rings and piston at assembly? Or did you install them dry? If it has been some time even if you oiled the rings and piston the oil will run back to the pan eventually and this will cause no or very low compression on a new engine. Anyway why not try squirting 5-6 good squirts from a oil can in each cylinder and try and start it you may be surprised.

I think the first question should be answered first,...is the fuel being fed?

You are sure the rotor fires on compression. Check the rotor with the cap off to make sure the rotor is at #1 when it fires. You didnt say whether a Mag or a Dist.

That's one thing I never even thought of - guess I need to find some Hay and grain first LOL Good one !!

I have a magneto - and a new exhaust-Intake manifold - which is of a different design than the original that was on it.