John Deere.. hydraulics

Was wondering if anybody has experienced a problem with a 2530 John Deere tractor, in which the seal on the hydraulic pump"s drive shaft continually blows out...
Had seals replaced twice only to start leaking within a few minutes with no load being subjected to the machine

The press-in seal on the outside of the pump is NOT there to hold any pressure. The pressure seal is inside the pump and cannot be replaced without removing the pump and taking it all apart. If you've just been replacing the outside seal, you are wasting time and money.

Cliff is that a 2520???? I have not heard of a 2530 tractor. If it is a JD 2520 JDEMArris is correct that the external seal is to only keep low pressure rerun oil in and dirt out. If the oring on the shaft that keeps high pressure oil out of the return section is bad it will push the seal out. Also there is a small return line the comes off of the pump. This line is plastic and goes back toward the rear of the tractor. If that line is plugged or blocked it will cause the seal to fail too. The design is that they know some oil will seep past any seal they had there so they made another section the returned that oil back into the system. You can get the lower pressured oil sealed with just a lip seal.

Go to jdparts.com and search the part number R39729 this the oring that seals the high pressure oil in. Look on a breakdown of the hydraulic pump.

I assumed he meant a 2350 and switched two number around.

2530 was made in Argentina.

But, regardless - 2530, 2350 or 2520, all the same in regard to seals. Either it's going to be the little 1.4 German pump, or the bigger USA 2.4 pump. Both have internal high pressure seals and external low-pressure debris seals.

Sorry about the wrong model number..
It is a 2150...
I assume the advise is the same though!
Since the pump was sent into an authorized John Deere dealer for repair.. and we "temporarily" assume they fixed it properly and I have also replaced the plastic hose. Is there anywhere else that could be plugged or otherwise compromising the seal?
Thank you so much for this!

You need to remove the hood and and check the return circuit clear back to the shifter cover. The plastic line goes from the pump to the fitting on the hydraulic reservoir then another line goes on back to the right front of the shifter cover. This just need to be blown through to check that it is open back to the transmission cover. This just dumps the oil back into the transmission sump.
If the hydraulic pump has not been removed and rebuilt then that is more than likely where the problem is. Too many mechanics don"t want to pull the pump so they try to skimp by just replacing the exterior pump seal. That only works a small percentage of the time.
If the return circuit is open then you will need to pull the pump. You will need to do this from the top. Remove the radiator and oil cooler together. Then the pump drive coupling. You may or may not need to remove the fuel tank. Some you do and some you don"t. Then remove the hydraulic pump.

Then you will have a decision to make. The removal of the pump from the tractor is not a high tech thing to do. It just takes some time. I would save the shop labor rate and do that myself if you have a place/time to do it. Rebuilding the pump is more of a challenge. If you are mechanically inclined it is not "that" hard to do. If your system just had this leak. If it is acting funny in other ways then you might have several problems. Then you need someone that has experience in the whole system. So you need to decide if you are going to tackle the pump rebuild or just remove it and take it to some else to repair.
The pump needs to be disassembled and checkout. You might need a seal kit put in the pump and be good to go. You might have a input shaft with a grove cut into it. You can"t tell until it is apart. The lower hours the tractor has the less costly the repairs should be.

Deere needs to rebuilt again...It's their problem