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Putting R134a into tractor

N

nh8260

Member
I have a small leak in the roof part of my new holland tractor, so after a few months the AC starts getting warmer and warmer, i usually have a trained AC mechanic add a can or two of freon and it is ice cold again, i just haven't had time to get up there and find the leak yet. He gave me an extra hose he had, the one that plugs in the low side hose and attaches to the can to let the freon in. He told me to watch the receiver dryer sight glass and when it stops bubbling the system is full, if it is still bubbling then i need to add another half to a full can, is this a reliable way of doing it? I don't want to over charge it, and i don't have any gauges either, wouldn't know how to use them if i had any :eek:)
 
The sightglass in an R-134 system typically doesn't clear up 100% (as an R-12 system did) when it's fully charged and (typically) you will overcharge the system if you try to add enough R-134 to clear up the bubbles/foam.

Some new systems or replacement dryers have now eliminated the sightglass altogether.

Without gauges or other exotic tools you are better off to add R-134 sparingly 'til it cools reasonably well and stop there rather than trying to clear up the sightglass.

Of course, if there is a problem other than low refrigerant level making it not cool or cool poorly and you add a can or two of (unneeded) refrigerant pressures are gonna be WAY up.
 
Most auto parts stores sell a cheap R134a hose with a built-in gauge that's better than nothing. Charge it until it's just into the yellow zone on the gauge and you'll be pretty close. Ten bucks for a different hose beats spending a couple hundred on a new condenser.
 
Agreed.

Do you need some kind of adaptor put on to allow you to put R134 into a R12 system? Aren't the fittings differant sized?
 
The sightglass is actually the best way to do it unless you start with an empty system and know the exact weight of freon to put in. They never get totally clear if it's cooling good and you still see a few bubbles thats fine stop there.
 
If you can access the inlet and outlet pipe of the evaporator,,, charge till both feel the same temp...

If its a r12 system I hope it has a high pressure cut out switch....
 
You can buy adapter fittings that screw onto the R-12 schrader valves. They're permanent and have loctite on the threads. For some late-model GM vehicles, the fittings can be replaced completely instead of using the adapters.

If you're switching from R-12 to R-134, at the very least you need to pull a vacuum on the system. You need to add ester-base oil when you refill with R-134. But you should really flush the system to get out the old oil and replace the dryer.
 
what do you guys think of the R134a freon with stop leak? is it good to use or stay away from it?
 
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