Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
On a forum I watch here, folks are using it in old tractors and say it's just fine. Sure would save me a bunch of money when I change mine and put the frontloader back on.
Bad idea?
Dave
Bad idea?
Dave
- Thread starter Anonymous-0
- Start date
Dave, lots of old tractors in europe used engine oil through out the tractor. In many old tractors there are no pumps to move lube oil through the transmission, so the thicker engine oil is just flung around by the gears andd then gets to everything (and stays there a little longer than hydraulic oil)
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I've never seen 15W-40 recommended for hydraulic oil. However 10W-30 for a gas engine is quite common for hydraulic systems. That's what's specified for my skid steer. If it's for a seperate hyd. system 15W-40 might be OK but for a universal tractor oil shouldn't be used. I'd use what's recommended in the manual. 15W-40 usually costs about the same as tractor fluid/hyd. fluid and sometimes more, so can't see much of a saving using it. Dave
If you do a search in the Ferguson Forum, you"ll find some info on this. It comes from a Forum member in England where apparently they cannot get GL-1 type oils. This gentleman contacted Castrol for a recommendation and that recomendation was to use 15W30 motor oil. 15W30 motor oil is not common in the US and so people have used 15W40. Several posters have used this for several years and report better cold weather performance and no other problems.
Note that these recommendations were made for a Harry Ferguson vintage tractors (TO-20, TE-& TEA-20 and TO-30, etc) not ones with wet clutches or wet brakes.
Note that these recommendations were made for a Harry Ferguson vintage tractors (TO-20, TE-& TEA-20 and TO-30, etc) not ones with wet clutches or wet brakes.
J.ReinkeFarms
Member
All the newer Cat equipment around here that Eagle Excavating runs has in permanent marker on the rear "15W40 Hydraulic Oil" don't know if that's what Cat recommends or if that's just what they are doing. My 2 cents.
Bus Driver
Well-known Member
The UTB tractors (many Long models, Allis 5040, Oliver 1250A) recommend 10W-40 for the transmission/ differential/hydraulic sump.
I was ready to use 15/40 in my 640.I had loss of lift when the oil got hot.I had 134 in the hydraulic system for many years.I found the MF infor mation but went with the reccommedations is the Ford Service Manual and used 90wt GLI.That fixed the loss of lift.It made sense that an oil that thickened when hot would fix the problem.A Hydraulic serviceman told me that a worn pump would bypass oil as the oil thinned and that adding STP would help or going to a thicker oil would fix the loss of lift power.He was right and the expert BS birds on here were wrong.
VICKERS..the largest manufacturer of industrial
equipment in the world,-pumps/motors/valves-
Through the 80s, into the early 90s recommend
10-30 multiweight crankcase grade motor oil, due
to its anti foam, anti varnish, anti rust,
inhibitors.
Vickers is now a division of Eaton, and I haven"t
seen a recent catalog)
equipment in the world,-pumps/motors/valves-
Through the 80s, into the early 90s recommend
10-30 multiweight crankcase grade motor oil, due
to its anti foam, anti varnish, anti rust,
inhibitors.
Vickers is now a division of Eaton, and I haven"t
seen a recent catalog)
Wisconsin Cowman
Member
There is hydraulic oil that is called 15w40 hydraulic oil. I know Cen-Pe-Co has it. That is what I use in some equipment.
The 'experts' were not 'wrong'. You just didn't find out yet that you have a problem you're masking with 90W oil. A good cold snap will show you that... Instead of needing to reseal a lift cylinder and replace some check valves you'll probably end up repalceing a scored/cavitated pump along with the other things...
Rod
Rod
shaun wallace
Well-known Member
I can remember when type A automatic or 20# motor oil was recomended for hyd oil.
We are looking for an oil the gets thicker when it heats up.I use Shell Rotella 15/40 in my truck and tractor.A farm paper said that oil consumption dropped when Rotella was used.I dont mind paying more for stuff that works better.Butter,whole milk, dark beer,good tools are a better buy in the long run.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Hydraulic oil (what the local IH dealer wants to sell) is about 3 times the price of engine oil. Generic stuff almost there. I can buy motor oul on post for about half the price as it costs on the local economy.
Dave
To what end? You could run the 10W30 class TDH, the approved modern lubricant... without issue and never have to change it unless it was perhaps -50C.
We ran Dexron in our 860 for years and years and never had any leakdown issues. That tractor always had unload valve issues from the day it was delivered... and those lessened with Dexron. They'd probably go away with 134D because of the way it absorbs moisture... but the low vis oil never caused a single problem.
Rod
We ran Dexron in our 860 for years and years and never had any leakdown issues. That tractor always had unload valve issues from the day it was delivered... and those lessened with Dexron. They'd probably go away with 134D because of the way it absorbs moisture... but the low vis oil never caused a single problem.
Rod
to_many_irons
Member
from what i found oil is not oil .if in question what should go in something go to a web sit and ask . the cheap stuff is what it is cheap . after spending lots of money on a trans , rear end , moter or hyd repair why put the cheap or not the right stuff and cost down the road .
well may be the cheap stuff for a flush only .
well may be the cheap stuff for a flush only .
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