I have a 76 Dodge one ton for a grain truck and it won't start. I have fuel to carb but no spark. I have 12 volts on both sides of the coil. Is there a way to check the magnetic pickup? Or is there something else I should look at? Thanks!
 
Check the rotor to make sure it's not broken off, and check the rotor cap to make sure it's not corroded on the contacts or cracked. Also check to make sure the wire connection from the coil is getting juice to the rotor
 
Usually there should only be 12 volts (relative to ground) on the coils high input (NOT to distributor) terminal since the other terminal wires to the distributors points which are usually closed thereby at ground potential. If you put a test light on the coils low output to distributor terminal and the engine is cranked over it should flash on (points open) and off (poinst closed). If it never goes off the points arent closing or very badly burned,,,,If it never is on, the condensor may be dead shorted or theres a short in teh distributor like the input stud/terminal.

Even if it has an elec switch it does the same as points, it closes to conduct coil current then opens momentarily to fire the coil.

If its an elec ignition much of my test procedure still applies, the points are just replaced by a solid state switch

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

Run through my test procedure below may help.

John T
John Ts Ignition Troubleshooting
 
The pick-up coil should have a resistance of about 300 ohms. You can also, if you remove the distributor from the engine, connect a AC voltmeter across the pick-up coil. Then spin the distributor shaft. You should see a low AC voltage generated. Check to be sure the control box has a GOOD GROUND.If all of this checks out, You most likely have a bad ignition box. Remove the box and take it to an auto parts store. Most can test. If it test bad replace the box.
I have a 1967 D-400 that I converted to electronic ignition using the later Mopar electronic distributor for the 318/360 but I used a GM 4 pin HEI Chip instead of the Chrysler control box. I did this because it made the wiring simpler and I could ditch the ballast resister. I did have to build a heat sink for the HEI Chip.

Kent
 

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