Kubota L275 Water Pump

I inherited a Kubota L275 with a bad water pump. Anybody know if you can replace the thing without taking off the radiator? Looks like ou hsve too - Anybody know any pitfalls in doing this - I"m not up on these more modern machines.
 
Early kubotas were relatively easy to work on, Not sure if you have to pull the rad, or not, but just take it easy, get the pump, hoses, clamps, thermostat, and do it all at once, one piece at a time, just like on an American tractor. 'Cept of course, you have to use a metric adjustable wrench!
 
I just looked in the flat rate manual only gives 1.2 hr to remove and replace. If you can get to the center of the fan and rmove those 4 bolts you should have room to do the rest without removing the radiator. A work of caution the water pump is a long ob long cover on the front of the engine and the LOWER bolts are diffrent from the top ones. Pay attention to which length bolt comes from which hole or you will break things when you go back..Is yours leakins?
 
I don't recamend this for a permanent fix.But if it just leaks and you want to keep using it, 1 or 2 cups of ground black pepper in the rad will often stop the leak.I'v been running my 1995 volvo like that for a year,but The shop that will do the change for me if it starts leaking again can do it in the same day.
 
Thanks dave and jm Good advice on the hoses, clamps etc. jm thanks the different size bolts are a trap I almost always forget. Before I got the machine some "helpful henry" mowed 6 acres with it to help me and overheated it. NO Temperature guage on this machine and "henry" really tore the bearing out of the pump. You can move the fan many degrees left, right, up or down and it throws small amounts of oil. It will sit for awhile cause we're busy but when I get it done I'll try to fill you in on the details. Thanks again
 
I a have a Kubota L245, the water pump is rebuildable. The kit from Kubota contains the mechanical seal. I purchased bearings locally.
I don't remember if I removed the radiator, but probably did.
 
Thanks everybody, especially JM - the radiator has to come off because you can"t get to the fan bolts because of the shroud. Its easier to remove the radiator than the shroud alone. The bit about the different bolts was vital. I made a template from the gasket on a piece of cardboard and drilled a hole in each bolt hole so each time I removed a bolt it went into the corresponding hole. Saved a bunch of time. Everything worked great - took quite a bit longer than the flat rate manual said. Oh the crank shaft pulley is not uniformly thick and can get in the way of the lowest small bolt on the inside so when you shut down look to see it isn"t in the way.
 

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