Grease fitting removel

Leroy

Well-known Member
Trying to remove a 5/16" drive in grease fitting out of a cast piece on a hay rake. Probably been there for 50 years. The fitting is broke off even with the surface and should be able to just drill it out, WRONG, so hard 2 brand new bits will not touch it. Tried heating to soften the steel but still no luck with the bits. What Next? The real is out of rake and spot is easy to get too but cannot be put in a drill press.
 
First I'd try a good carbide bit vs the regular tool steel bits. Too find a left hand bit vs a standard right hand cuttting bit. Hopefully as it cuts and thins the walls of the fitting and relieves some of the tension on them it'll back it out too. If that doesn't work use a small carbide burr in a die grinder and eat away the fitting down to the threads and peal them out with a pick. I've done hundreds of threaded fittings like this over the years when nothing else worked and that is always a sure bet.... Good luck.
 
I was trying to drill out a busted driveshaft spline in a New Holland 617 disc mower gearbox. I chewed up 3 "standard carbide masonary bits" because they are so hard that the vibration and heat destroy the inserts. I then went to Ace Hardware of all places and they sold me a softer carbide bit which was made specially for drilling hardened steel. It worked great until I snapped it off. I then learned I could press out the busted piece which of course meant all the drilling was a waste of time.
Check and see if you can buy the special carbide bit for drilling steel.
If all else fails, take a punch and break the dang thing up into little pieces and then drill and tap the resulting mangled hole to the next bigger size and be done with it.
John
 
can you move over some and re-drill a new hole for a new zerk instead of trying to drill the old one out?
 
You might be lucky, I was the other day on front wheel hubs, just drove the old busted off one right on through , same size hole all the way.
 
I would clean it up and lay a 5/16 nut on top of it. Weld nut to zerk as hot as you can get. Let it cool for hours. When the weld cools it will shrink the zerk enough, it should lift right out, weld and all.
 
Hour or so later went out and thought I would try 1 more bit, an older one of a smaller size to se if I could get it through and it started cutting right away, think the cutting edges were a sharper angle and the heat had possibly done its job. Anyway that bit took a hold and cut through the fitting till just at the very end and it grabbed enough that it turned the remaing part of the fitting out and now the new one is in. And it was in the center of a pin in a idler wheel so it could not be moved.
 
No, actually I think hardley anything made in last 25 years used them, very hard to find. Lucky to have a small 1 man farm parts store run by a 75 year old man. This was on a real for a steel wheel McCormick hay rake, When I got it the rake had been cut down to rubber but I knew it would fit in the old steel wheel rake I had, This was about 15 year ago and just now fixing it up and painting it for resale, all these rakes are now bringing good money. Couple of month ago a N I 3 bar rake I had bought at that same time frame for $15 after fixing up and painting I sold to a Dealer for $350 and in 2 weeks it was sold and gone off the lot. Have a 4 bar N I ready to deliever next week after having 99% apart and rebuilding and painting.
 
Drive in fitting or screwed in fitting, the process works for either, the only difference is there are no threads to peal out....Guess I should have been more specific with my answer......
 

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