535 baler wont start bale

4020 · Jul 17, 2010

I am having problems with my 535 John Deere baler not wanting to start a bale. When starting a bale it will run a little bit of hay into the chamber. Then it acts as though it cant get the hay to start spinning, just wads up in there. Normally after that it will wrap the starter roller. The problem has seemed to have gotten worse over time. We are baling only dry hay with it so its not because the hay is to wet.

JDseller · Jul 17, 2010

Do the belts seem tight? If they have stretched they will not form the correct shape to start good bales. Pull a belt and check the length: short belt 525 inches, long belt 531 inches.
If your belts are the correct length. Then check them out when the door is shut and ready to start the bale. SHUT the tractor off and look up inside of the bale chamber. The belts should be tight and straight. If not then see if the tension arm is going all of the way to the home position. I have seen hay get caught in them and keep them from starting the bale. Check all of the bearings out on the bottom rollers. Sometime a bad bearing will let the roll run crooked and mess things up.

MN Scott · Jul 17, 2010

Is the diamond tread on the belts worn smooth? Like JD suggested check the belt length, but not for to long for to short. As belts age they get shorter not longer. If they are to short the tension arm will not fully lower causing trouble like you have. Also does your pressure go up when you have your gate shut? A bad hydraulic tension valve will cause low or no pressure with an empty baler that will cause bale starting troubles. One other thing over the years I have found you have to have the baler running at PTO speed before you hit the windrow. The few times I have plugged a Deere baler it was from rolling into a windrow at low RPM. Good Luck and post back when you find the problem. Deere 535 is an excellent baler.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 17, 2010

Check the starter roll bars. The edges wear smooth from crop material.

Weld a rough bead on the smooth edges, rougher the better. Attach the ground cable to the roll and not thru the bearings.

gregger · Jul 17, 2010

as said about the worn belts if they are smooth they have lost there griping power -- also the newer baler have 4 i beleave small rods 1/2" welded across the steel forming roll

4020 · Jul 17, 2010

I welded a bead on the bars on the starter roller. Ill give that a try today and see what happens. Thanks

4020 · Jul 17, 2010

I checked the tension arm and am pretty sure its dropping all the way down. I will check the hydraulic tension when i start baling.It does have pressure though when empty. Whats the best way to know if the diamand tread is wore out. Im sure mine is wore but its not near as bad as our 530 baler which bales ok. This baler has seen a lot of hay. The sheet metal in chamber where the bale spins is wore clear through in spots.

GordoSD · Jul 17, 2010

There is an implement forum for balers.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 17, 2010

There are three steps or levels in the diamond pattern. If down to the last step belts are probably worn out. Run your hand over the belt surface. Does it feel smooth, if so, replace.

Ky Hauler · Jul 17, 2010

Keep yer hands away from them belts. A guy stole a baler and used it for a couple years and then got caught in it. Nothing stickin' out but his legs. Poetic justice.

M w J · Jul 17, 2010

Do you still have the hay compression rods above the pickup if not tuff hay or thin windrows will rap and plug more so when staring bales.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 17, 2010

Also need to check the tension for the pickup drive belt! Loose belt will not pack hay into the baler.

rrlund · Jul 17, 2010

Amazing the difference in balers. When a Gehl won't start a bale you have to turn the rods on on the belt rack and LOOSTEN the belts to give the chamber more room for more hay to get one started. Just an observation,not saying that's how to do it on a Deere.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 17, 2010

check ther pickup closely cam brgs, cam and spiders, I had the cam to become lose on its mounts causeing the placement of hay to the rollers to be off

MN Scott · Jul 17, 2010

566 on up balers have round bars welded to the starter roll. When you dump a bale a wad of hay can drop behind a belt and roller and force the belt into the starter roll taking a chunk out of a belt. The round bars prevent this. For that reason be very careful welding on the bars, get them to thick and they will eat your belts.

JDseller · Jul 17, 2010

I have used John Deere balers clear back to the old 510s. I have never seen a belt get "shorter" with age. I take mine out twice each year and measure them. I put them back to standard length. I always get a few inches off of each one. I have been to some of the New Holland training schools and they talk about them getting shorter with age. Like I said I have never personally seen it.
Like the one other poster ask, do you have your compression rack in??? I take mine out for corn stalks and put it back for hay.

Tx Jim · Jul 18, 2010

(quoted from post at 00:03:06 07/18/10)
I have never seen a belt get "shorter" with age. . I have been to some of the New Holland training schools and they talk about them getting shorter with age. .

#1 When I was worked for JD dealer back when 430/530's came out JD's district service manager from the Dallas branch stated JD rd baler belts shrunk with usage not stretched!!!

#2 I doubt NH uses the exact same belt material as JD

Tx Jim · Jul 18, 2010

4020
As Roger stated welding on leading edge of each bar on starter roll. This repair was recommended to me by JD area service manager. I've also welded a bead about 8" long on each side of starter roll half way between bars.

I've also welded on round rods on newer type starter rolls.

Also run pickup teeth as high as possible and still pickup hay from windrow. Be sure most of the teeth are in place. As stated pickup belt condition is important,

Tx Jim · Jul 18, 2010

(quoted from post at 22:43:01 07/17/10) When you dump a bale a wad of hay can drop behind a belt and roller and force the belt into the starter roll taking a chunk out of a belt. The round bars prevent this. .

I ran an experimental round rod starter roll in a 435 for JD Ottumwa Factory. When they installed it the JD rep stated the roll diameter was smaller to increase distance between starter roll & belts to help prevent what you stated. Rocks were also a problem to take chunks out of the belts.

4020 · Jul 18, 2010

Thanks for all the suggestions! After i welded on the starter roller I went and baled a 100 bales yesterday. I didnt have to much trouble until it got to getting tough of an evening. Im sure that if i replaced the belts it would probably finish solving my problem. What is the differance on the newer balers that are set up as silage specials compared to mine? Is it just a difference in the starter roller?

Tx Jim · Jul 19, 2010

(quoted from post at 15:13:05 07/18/10)
Is it just a difference in the starter roller?

No according to JDparts.com the starter rolls are the same for a regular & silage balers. But silage balers have scrapers to help keep down buildup on rollers plus an auger in front of starter roll. There may be other differences as I never seen a silage baler in person.

535 baler wont start bale

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