Crankcase full of gas?

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Allis D17 gas. My carb float doesn't shut off the fuel supply completely. It filled the cylinders and crankcase with gas. I found out when I tried to start it. It wouldn't turn over, just made a strong sounding click. The plugs were wet with gas, and the oil dipstick was dripping with gas.

Aside from fixing the carb, changing the oil/filter, and removing any gas left in the cylinders, what else do I need to do?
 
Shut off the gas when the tractor is not running, or shut it off and let the tractor run it dry. As far as the gas in the crankcase I don't know what that will do, but someone else will.
Zach
 
What else? At least put in a shutoff valve in fuel line or check under tank for a original shutoff valve and make sure it works. Lots of old tractor manuals said to turn off tank valve when stopping tractor at end of days work. Some of the small engine riding mowers have lots of trouble complaints about gas in oil- manual valve for $7.95 in line takes care of the worn/corroded "automatic" shutoff valves that are no longer working and cost $49.95 to replace. Even if you do a carb float needle and seat replacement- use the manual shutoff. RN
 
Sounds like you have it covered. If you crank the engine over with the starter to blow the gas out, make sure you have the spark plug wires removed.

I had the same problem on my John Deere B. I accidentally set the tractor on fire when the exposed plug wire came in contact with the engine block while I was blowing the gas out.

Good luck.
 
Well #1 always shut the gas off at the tank when parked. #2 after clearing the cylinder of gas I would pour just a little ATF in the cylinders so as to lube the top of the cylinders so you do not have a dry start. #3 check/clean the air cleaner since it is probably full of gas also. And those are just added to your list
 
I fought that flood over problem for years on my 4020 JD gass model.
The fuel lines are a bit rusty internally and the carb has a steel needle/ brass seat.
The slightst bit of dirt or rust will hold the needle off it's seat and flood the entire engine.

It's a real pain to turn the tank valve on / off every time I use the tractor.

I finally installed a 12V solenoid valve inline before the carb that opens/ closes with the ignition.
That totally ended the problem, even if the needle valve leaks, the fuel supply is automatically cut off when I turn off the ignition.

The valve was avalible from my local propane supplier, as the valve is a gasoline fuel lock for a dual fuel propane / gasoline fuel system.
 
drain the oil before you start the tractor, change oil filter, clean air filter, remove spark plugs, after refilling the engine with oil, spin engine over to blow the gas out of the cylinders and dry the cylinders, install new plugs if yours are wet, make sure when spinning the engine that none of the disconected plug wires is near a ground, or your 4th will be celebrated early lol, remember to turn off the gas next time, if your valve leaks fix it or install a new one, and finally dont feel too bad, there isnt one serious old iron nut here who hasnt done the same thing at least once
 
Reading the posts below, you've got pretty good advice.

Wouldn't turn over, eh? Well, sounds like you have got some real good rings and cylinders, and it sounds like the valves seat real good too, although eventually ended up in the crank case. All good qualities. Not turning over sounds like you hydrauliced a cylinder(s), which sounds like emptied into the crank. But to make sure, pull the plugs, all of them and turn it over to make sure they're empty, because if they aren't, something will have to give, usually ending up with a bent connecting rod. So, pull the plugs and give the fluids somewhere to exit when you turn it over.

Good luck.

Mark
 

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