Removing PTO shaft on a drum mower??

Hay's all in. Last bale in the barn and wagon cleaned and parked. Baler still gets used a little foor a couple old guys that have haystacks they feed their rabbits that suddenly decided how convenient it'd be to have them baled. Chain toplink on the bar rake was what the doctor ordered also.
Anyway, after I mowed a few yards with the drum mower, I figured out why there was a grease gun laying next to it when I was picking it up. Ujoint went out. Is there a trick to getting the shaft loose from the mower? I compress the flange but don't have enough a$$ to get the shaft off. Imagine it's been in place since the mower was new.

Thanks for any tips.


Dave

Do you have to take it off to replace the U joint? Would think you could just remove the snap rings and change it "in place". Maybe a little harder to hold everything where it needs to be, but having an assistant would take care of that problem.

If you do have to remove it, its the normal sequence of penetrating oil, beating on it, etc., until you finally give up and heat it. If it clamps onto the shaft with a bolt, you should drive a chisel into the slit to spread it (after removing the bolt, of course).

Shoot us a picture, there are many types of drive lines, some are more of a PITA than others.

(quoted from post at 16:11:54 06/29/10) Shoot us a picture, there are many types of drive lines, some are more of a PITA than others.

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Ask, and Ye shall receive.....



Believe it's just stuck. Got me some real honesttagoodness American (prolly made in china) penetrating oil this morning and doused it, Will do it again tomorrow and "tap" on a little and take it off on the weekend.

I hope.

Dave

(quoted from post at 15:15:52 06/29/10) Do you have to take it off to replace the U joint? Would think you could just remove the snap rings and change it "in place". Maybe a little harder to hold everything where it needs to be, but having an assistant would take care of that problem.

If you do have to remove it, its the normal sequence of penetrating oil, beating on it, etc., until you finally give up and heat it. If it clamps onto the shaft with a bolt, you should drive a chisel into the slit to spread it (after removing the bolt, of course).

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May I ask how you replace a u-joint cross & caps without the aid of a vise?

Get in there with some needle nose pliers, and start pullin the hay out. Is that one of the twist and pull 3 ball flange mounts I see on the back side? If so, chaff can get into the area where the balls are, and hold water, and rust your balls into place, and you don't want rusty balls. Out with the junk, and in with penetrating oil, plus tap on it with a little hammer, should loosen it up.

Also, don't hit on the front too hard, it looks like it has an ORC in the front part.

Yeah , and once off ,,
Throw that modern b/scit junk in the scrap and put a button latch system on it and you can be happy

Looks like he already got the u-joint out (or it dissambled itself), but needs to replace the damaged yoke. I kind of misunderstood the question- I thought he was removing the assembly just to change the U-joint.

You need a vise to hold the assembly while you take it apart, but if its still on the machine, the shaft will hold one end, and your assistant will hold the other. At least "in theory".

(quoted from post at 11:46:05 06/30/10) Looks like he already got the u-joint out (or it dissambled itself), but needs to replace the damaged yoke. I kind of misunderstood the question- I thought he was removing the assembly just to change the U-joint.

You need a vise to hold the assembly while you take it apart, but if its still on the machine, the shaft will hold one end, and your assistant will hold the other. At least "in theory".

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Sometimes the repair person doesn't have an "assistant" and sometimes NEW u-joint cups don't just slide in the yoke without some "pressure" and a "hammer" isn't the best choice.