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Head Gasket Replacement

P

Paul Wald

Member
I have a head gasket leak on my "A" Farmall. This motor was rebuilt 2 years ago (by someone else). Before I rip it apart, anything I need to check on the head (springs, etc)? Should probably get it planed, or maybe the rebuilder didn't know the torque recomended has been bumped to 80 pounds. Don't need another blown gasket, bad for the ego!
 
Paul, You don't necessarily need it re-surfaced. Why the gasket failed needs to be determined. Where did the head gasket fail? Can you post pics of the head and the block deck or describe the failure? You do need to check it for out-of-flat and cast iron heads can either be magnafluxed or dye penetrant tested for cracks. I'd buy the dye penetrant test kit. It's easy to use. Just has three spray cans and follow directions. Get it at regular auto parts stores.
 
I would only recommend that you get a gasket from CaseIH, not a substitute. I've had some bad experience with "after market" gaskets. Also use a good gasket sealing substance, I prefer Permatex Aviation gasket sealer, others may prefer something else.
 
Can't get a picture right now. Headin' out to drill more beans. I will get back to this when it rains. Still haven't started on 200 acres of hay. First week dry enough to get any farm work done. I will post some pics when I get a chance to pull it apart, thanks.
 
Block threads should be chased to ensure they are clean.
A reamer should be run around the top thread to ensure a thread isn't above the deck surface.
New bolts are a good idea. Time, vibration, thermal cycles,corrosion and stretching by some Bubba who thinks more torque is better. The old bolts may not be evenly compressing the head down onto the block.
 
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