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ford 800 runs then quits

G

gail brigham

Member
My Ford 800 still runs about 30 minutes then quits. I changed plugs, points, coil, wires and it definitely runs better but quits after getting hot. It reminds me of vapor lock [in the olden days on a hot day] and it acts like it"s running out of fuel. The gas cap is loose so it"s venting well. After cooling down for about an hour it starts right up.
I am convinced it"s something other than starving for fuel but can"t rule that out. Somehow it seems related to getting hot. So my question is: What should I check or do next?
Thanks in advance to everyone who weighs in.
Lane
 
Check for spark when it dies.

Obviously, that will narrow the problem down to fuel or spark.
 
Yea, check for spark, but I had an old pickuponce thad'd vapor lock for no real reason. Sounds like an ignition problem to me though (sometimes I don't hear the best :shock: )

Dave
 
You can get both bad off the shelf........ I'm not the expert some of these folks is, but I'd lean toward the coil. Be careful, but just touch things and see what feels hotter than normal??

Dave
 
If the problem is with ignition, it is my guess it is with some of the wiring. I had a pickup that gave me fits until I found out the wire between the coil and the points was broken inside the insulation. A light hooked up to the ignition at the coil (and the other end grounded) would stay lit if the wiring to that point was good, but would go out when the tractor quit if the problem was before there.
 
Should I check spark with the coil wire or a plug wire (like in the old days holding the wire about 1/4 inch from the block)?
 
my dad had a brand new ford pickup that would get him about half a mile from work every morning if it was hot outside. He hardly ever made it back home. After 3 weeks of madness he had some one sit under the hood and pour gas in the carb turns out it was a rubber hose was callapsing when it got hot.
 
(quoted from post at 07:27:07 05/29/10) Should I check spark with the coil wire or a plug wire (like in the old days holding the wire about 1/4 inch from the block)?
Click to expand...

I'd check at the plug first just cause I'm lazy. If it's not blue, check at the coil.

Dave
 
One POSSIBLE reason to lose spark on those distributors is a short-to-ground at the primary terminal that passes through the distributor housing. It's POSSIBLE that could happen when the aluminum housing heats up and expands, then clear itself when cool.

HOWEVER, you're getting ahead of yourself here.

FIRST, verify whether or not spark is lost as it's "dieing".
 
Took a new distributor to fix our 960 with that problem. Got hot, steam vapors came up the worn shaft, and shorted out the distributor.

One of many possibilities.

--->Paul
 
I had put the plug wires in wrong.......... funny how i thought it was the coil...... in my reasoning that [12v replacing 6v coil] was the only difference..... as Dave2 says my mistake is "top secret" so don't tell anyone on the forum
lane
 
funny about the old rag....... that's what the previous owner did and I, of course, promptly replaced it with a shiny new gas cap ordered from YT parts
Lane
 
Bob, is that the wire from the coil terminal? this 800 only has one {my other ford 800 has two-one connected to the positive side and the other to the negative side of the coil]
lane
 
I went through all sorts of trouble with a 3.1 GM V-6 with the 3 separate coil packs due to a miswire. I had just put head gaskets on it and as my bad luck would have it, it was the cylinder that was at or near "0" compression where the dead cylinder was. I replaced the injector, swapped coils around, swapped out plug wires and still had a miss. Finally started over from scratch and found 2 wires out of place. What threw me off was, only 1 cylinder wouldn't fire. Good thing I had an old motor with plenty of spare parts around or that would have gotten expensive as well as time consuming.
But this isn't helping you. Have you checked for spark with it "hot" yet? It could be that the fuel tank takes about 30 minutes to draw down far enough to create a small vacuum so to speak and cause it to die. I've got a small engine that does that. If I remove the cap, wait about 1 minute, put it back on, it starts right back up. One or two times like this, then it will run until the tank is empty. I guess as it warms, it creates enough pressure from expansion to overcome the other problem?
 
My 960 was acting like that about this time last year. Turned out to be a fuel problem. Did like yours is do'n for the most part but it would not just die, it would run till it got hot then start sputer'n and limp'n along before it died. Turned out to be the rubber part of the fuel line where it turns to go down. Don't know that the line was not orginal, it was pretty dry rotted and would kink when hot, open up when it cooled down.
 
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