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Electric fence voltage

C

CB in central NY

Member
I have a rotational grazing system of pastures enclosed with woven wire fence (had it for years). I subdivided it with temporary ribbon fence and a solar energizer. This year I decided to strand a single line of high-tensile wire above the weave and electrify the whole perimeter, partly because that way I can take power off of any point along the fence for my internal subdivisions. I am still trying to power the whole thing with the solar energizer.

The total length of wire is about 10,000 feet. The energizer is a Gallagher. It's rated for about 8,400 volts. Now that it's hooked up to the fence, the LCD screen says 3,500 volts. I have tested the line with a tester and it shows between 3,500 and 4,000 volts. I have 6 ground rods as my grounding system.

The other day one of my new calves went right through the temp. ribbon and she did not even flinch. I put my hand on the ribbon and it barely stings.

I am thinking that I probably need a stronger energizer? Or is there anything else I am missing? I'd appreciate any thoughts on the issue. Thanks.
 
How many miles is the charger rated for? Now many miles of wire you have? Make sure its not over the rated mile capcity of the solar charger?
Ryan
 
Solar chargers don't have the power to run that much fence. A good 100v or battery powered one will work much better for what you are doing. That ribbon type of fence needs to be pretty hot to work very well. The resistance in it is higher than wire fence.
 
I agree with JD Seller. Solar chargers don't pack much punch regardless of how much fence they are rated for.

I've never used the tape, but I have used both solar and 110. Big difference.
 
I agree most of those solar chargers are pretty wimpy. I use a Parmak 12 volt charger that is rated for 30 miles. It puts out 10,000 volts low impeadance like the 110v models. I hook it to a 12v car battery and it will run for 3 weeks or more. I am working on setting it up with a Harbor Freight solar panel to keep it charged.

I have tried the tape but with a combination of whipping in the wind and the salt air, the wires break and it looses continuity. Now I run 14 ga aluminum wire, sometimes I run tape with it for visibility. Calves are tough, you need to run lower wires for them.

Tom
 
Taylor Fence Inc. makes a good solar charger. They are built in the U.S.A. Google them. They are a little more expensive but worth it.

Paul
 
Are you using ribbon (tape like, flat and thin) or wovenpoly wire (looks like baler twine)... we've found the woven polywire better than the tape stuff, and also the colour makes a difference too, white is far better than yellow or orange, somehow the animals see it better... the best we've found so far is white with a red weave in it.. and the more expensive stuff has more wire in it, that helps a lot...

Your ground system sounds ok, the only other thing that might help is to loop all the ends of your perimeter wire, so it is one continuous loop, with no brakes in the wire, using underground wire to go under gates etc... that can make a big difference, makes the shock come from both sides as it were...
 
I have a low impedance 110 system for many miles of fence I setup a short piece with that woven wire fence and it burned right though it. if you want to keep cows in get one.
Walt
 
Less than 2 miles of fence aint much even for a solar. Unhook your flat tape and take readings on just the high tensile wire. If your readings are good you may have an issue getting good connections from tape to wire or old tape, I have found some of the cheap tape where the wires get oxidized and break and give a guy fits.
 
The 8400V rating is most likely a no load voltage at the terminal of the charger. The impedance of the wire will reduce delivered voltage.

I have a Horizont wide impedance solar charger from Premeir1 and it runs a 3/4 mile single high tensile wire fence at 5000 volts.
I have a Gallagher S20(Ithink)and it"s about the same. 10,000 feet is nearly two miles so it doesn"t surprise me that you are down to 3500 volts. It should still turn a calf if the soil is damp, however.
In dry ground, you may need to run a separate ground wire about 4 inches below the hot wire because you can"t use the dry ground for the return circuit in some cases.
 
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