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Uncharted territory - looking for advice

S

sunuva

New User
I"m looking at buying a new (used) tractor for the family farm and I"m looking for advice. I"m currently using an early 60"s model MF 35. However, I"m Looking at buying a IH 544 because the price is good and it has a front end loader. But, it has a hydrostatic transmission - never used one on a tractor quite this old. Question is: is it solid or are there some red flags I should be aware of? Any comments/Suggestions are appreciated because this is somewhat uncharted territory for me.
 
They are a little rougher on fuel, but much more handy for "utility" type tasks- loader work, hauling stuff around the farmstead, etc. If you're going to do a lot of tillage, you might want to look for a gear drive tractor- but for general utility work, hard to beat a hydrostatic.
 
The 544 from what I can tell is alot like a 656 with 2 less cylinders, thous is built pretty solid.
I run one at work that is a hydro and at 6,000 hrs. the hydro has never been apart and it was used for every thing the first half of its life, nice peppy 4 cyl. alittle over 50 hp. but it does go through the gas. It now sounds as if there is a rod bearing going but guessing how it was ran (before me of course) and at 6,000 hrs. that doesn't seem unreasonable to me.
I wouldn't want one for pulling max loads but for every thing else you can't beat them.
I would check out the hydro good on it, put the lever all the way ahead rev it up and with the brakes on let out the inching pettle(clutch) and see if you can kill it, thats just one test I can think of.
If the price is to good thier may well be a problem with it. When every thing works like it should they are a very nice driving/running tractor with all the more modern features.
I'm sure there are othiers on here that know more about them on here as well.
 
MAKE very sure that the hydro is good. They are very costly to repair. Also set on this tractor and drive it. The hydro control and the loader valve being on opposite sides makes it harder to use. I think that the International utilities from this era are clumsy to use, my feelings. It will be bigger than your MF 35 but make sure that you are comfortable with the way it handles.
Parts will be higher than the MF 35 not very many after market parts for an International 544. Now CIH is cheaper than AGCO. AGCO parts are very high. I have several Olivers and it sucks when I have to go to the dealer.
 
I own 3 IH Hydros;826,1026,Hydro100,they are great tractors.can do ANYTHING with them.Awsome for PTO Work(baling,cutting hay,silagechopping.etc) nothing better!yes they use a little more fuel,but not enough to matter.yes,you can farm with them,run in low range(not HIGH,unless on the road) and keep it cool,no problems.Funny,the people who badmouth em,dont own one.If they did,theyd sing a different song
 
DeltaRed: I have owned several IH hydros. They work ok for Pto work. Field work is a different story. We has two IH 656s,both new, one gear and one hydro. The gear we pulled 4-16s with and had to go to 3-16s on the hydro. Also the ones you have are all row crop tractors. That 544 is going to be a utility. As for how great they are??? Make VERY sure that the hydro is good. Just got a neighbor's 826 hydro done. It would still move but when you pulled it and it got hot it slipped. The parts where $6800 alone. I am not going to charge him anything for labor. If Sunuva has problems I just want him to know what it could cost. A TA is $1500-2000 parts and labor. A hydro starts at $3000 and goes up. I have never fixed one that cost less than $4000. I fix one or two every year.
 
Pulled 4 x 16 plow for years with a 186.
In the past owned 544 utility (pulled 6 row planter),656 and the 186. All hydros no trouble with any. Mark
 
Have several years ih experience and sure not bias but I would run fast from ANY 30 year old hydro tractor. Possibility for a repair that would cost more than the value of the tractor.
 
I have a 544 Hydro, but it is a deisel. I love it. It is also a row crop. I have plowed and sdisked with it, did good, but I dont do that any more as I have larger gear drives now. Key is to keep the hydro cool as possible, and as other stated use low range as much as possible rather that high unless you are on the road. My engine uses a bit more fuel that if it were a gear drive, but then that is the cost for conveinience, a hydro is very practical for most all small farming operations. a 544 row crop in its own right is already kind of a rarity, JUST MAKE SURE THAT HYDRO IS PULLING DOWN THAT ENGINE WHEN YOU MAKE IT HAVE TO USE SOME TORQUE.
 
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