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O/T I give up , brake rotor turing

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My 96 dodge had a pulsating brake pedel. I checked the runout on the front brake rotors, and both around .012 wobble. No problem I will just take them off and have them turned. I put them back on, and had the same wobble. I took the worst back, and had it turned again. It chacked within .001 which is good. I removed the other one, and had it returned it came back worse. Now here I sit wondering what to do Monday. I think I will just take it to another shop. I can't take it back and have the same shop take off more material, and have it bad again. What to do. stan
 
Dont know about Dodge,are they part of the hub,which means big bucks,if not then try new ones.Dont sound right after having tem turned.I have had bad pedal thump om GMs thinking it was rotors and it turned out to be bad calipers.
Good Luck

Stan
 
One tip when doing this is before you take the rotors off, mark one of the studs and then mark the hole that stud came out of, called indexing the rotor. Check the inside of the rotor hat and the mating surface around the studs for rust, dirt, corrosion, etc. That will mess up a rotor turning job also.
 
IMHO I quit turning rotors years ago. Most new rotors are not that costly and if you turn the old ones usually they will pulse after the 1st hsrd stop anyway.
 
I'd never waste my time turning a rotor. New ones are usually cheap, thanks to China. And, often even if I have a rotor that's heaviy scored, I put new pads in, and once they seat, all works fine.

As rotors get thinner, some tend to only develop the warp when they get warm and don't clean up when reground (since they are then cold).
 
4 wheel drive?

probably front hub assembly with bearing? splined axle? is the brake assembly tight to the knuckle? might be the bearings too...

I just ordered new front bearing assys for the vue...squallin pretty bad,

2 centavos
 
(quoted from post at 00:53:36 03/28/10) My 96 dodge had a pulsating brake pedel. I checked the runout on the front brake rotors, and both around .012 wobble. No problem I will just take them off and have them turned. I put them back on, and had the same wobble. I took the worst back, and had it turned again. It chacked within .001 which is good. I removed the other one, and had it returned it came back worse. Now here I sit wondering what to do Monday. I think I will just take it to another shop. I can't take it back and have the same shop take off more material, and have it bad again. What to do. stan
Click to expand...

I quit turning rotors as well and have obtained longer service life. New pads as required until the rotor wobbles. Then replace the pair of rotors with a premium quality set.
 
First off buy 2 new rotors and be done with it, Turning rotors ain't worth it anymore. This might be the cause, How offend do you use the E-Brake? On most newer trucks the back brakes are adjusted this way, and if not used they get out of adjustment and cause the front brakes to do all the work. That's why the front rotors get hot and warp or get hot spots and you get that pulse in the brakes. If you have not used it for a while, set it 3 or 4 times and drive it and the first time you hit the brakes you will know if it worked or not (be careful). Bandit
 
I dont see why turning a rotor wouldnt work.Also if you turned the rotor it should be straight.I mean you cant turn it warped.So if its still not right then Im thinking its some other problem like a piece of rust or dirt between the rotor and the hub or something keeping it from going up against the hub like it should.I dont know anything about a Dodge,never worked on one,so I dont even know if it has a rotor thats seperate from the hub or not.What causes a lot of trouble with stuff like that is putting the wheels on with an impact wrench.You should torque them in sequence with a torque wrench.Im not saying thats your problem this time,but its a good idea to torque your wheels to keep from having trouble because of that.
The only reason I can see for buying a new rotor instead of turning them is saving time.Most people want to fix it right now and dont want to wait until the rotors are turned.
So if its still out after being turned,what would keep it from being out with a new rotor on it?I think its something else causing it to be out of line.
 
Maybe its not the front rotors giving you the problem.It could be the rear.Even if it has drum brakes on the rear they can do the same thing.The way to check is to drive the truck on a smooth road.Preferably one with little or no traffic.Get the vehicle up to speed and then reach down and grasp the emergency brake release handle and pull it out.Now with your left foot push down and hold the emergency brake.Do not engage the regular brake petal while doing this.Also do not let go of the emergency brake release handle.This lets the rear brakes engage by themselves.You are eliminating the front brakes this way.If you still get the pulsating effect then, turn or replace the rear drums or rotors.I've worked on brakes for years and the rear will give trouble just like the front.Heat is the enemy of brakes.
 
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1096017,parttype,1896

May be cheaper and definately safer to just replace them.

Dave
 
Chief, if your pedel is pulsating it's not your rotors,make steering shake.Drums you feel when you first aply,top half of braking.The longer you stay on the pedelthe more it will pulsate.Your 1 ton is too heavy to hop in the rear.Ithink you will find Drums worn down to much to turn Shoes glazed from over-heating.Turning wrenches too long,Steve Ky
 
Stan, the boss of the shop I worked in wouldn't turn front rotors, he always put new ones on when doing a brake job. His theory was that after wearing out a set of pads there were hard spots, caused by heat and friction, the rotor would be warped and even after turning ,when the rotor heated up it would tend to bend in the direction of the original warp, the brakes are noisier when turned and there are hard and soft spots on the surface , it will not result in a good brake job. He would turn rear drums, but never rotors..funny thing is when he did a complete brake job the vehicle never came back with a complaint..so I haven't had a rotor turned since. Just my two cents.
 
It sounds to me like whoever is turning your rotors does not know what they are doing. You can chuck them up wrong on the lathe. I would find a place that does not have yound kids that are just there for a job. I have turned a lot of rotor myself and I have had to pull some back and return them. As long as they are above specs it is not a problem. The specs are stamped on the rotors.
 
"Runout" or "wobble" would seem to be one thing and a variation in thickness between various areas on the rotor is another, and I would say that's what causes the pulsing of the pedal.

Were the rotors "turned" on a brake lathe in good condition, and properly set up to turn both faces at the same time, eliminating ANY chance for thickness variations?
 
I had this same thing on my VW which was caused by an out of round brake drum, seeing you have discs maybe the discs are not running true, a wobble as Bob says.
 
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