RV Rubber Roof Repair

My RV Roof has a rubber membrane (EDPM???) top and there are NO WATER LEAKS OR TEARS WHATSOEVER butttttttttt due to age the glue has failed in one area and the membrane is not stuck down to the plywood under it i.e. in a wind the membrane lifts slightly. The RV Forums say its glue failure. There are alllllllll sorts of RV rubber roof coatings and repair kits and sealers and glue etc but one would have to slit the perfectly good membrane, get glue under it, then reseal the slit. Im tempted to get a tube of Dicor (they say use that NOT Silicone on rubber roofs) and in 6 inch grid squares dab a spot and run a good stainless steel pan head wood screw down, then coat the top with another thin coat of Dicor sealant. Yep I KNOW thats not the right way but am considering it as that should stop any elevation of the membrane when driving and the Dicor under n over the screws should seal the holes left by the new screws. Heck I could even re coat the enitre area (using proper rubber roof coat) once the screws are in place and sealed so the membrane no longer lifts in the wind. I have a fear it could get a small tear n the wind tear the whole rubber top off grrrrrrrrr

Sooooooo whatcha think, those of you with rubber RV roof experience?????????????

John T

EPDM is severely damaged by petroleum products. Asphalt-based patching products are bad for EPDM. I know of no reason why silicone would be bad. NP1 by Sonolastic might be better.
Re-adhering the loose place is important.

Hey John,

We got out of the RV scene a few years ago (something about teen age girls and horses tieing us around home), but I seem to recall a product marketed for this type of project at Camping World and other RV outlets. At the time it was in the neighborhood of $350-400 a 5 gal. can. Check the manufacturer at CW and then go to a builder's supply, you can find the same can for about half the price if you decide to do something along those lines.

Generally I kind of like your plan, and you are correct in trying to do something before the wind tears it to shreds which will happen quicker than you might realize. Once the rubber gets some age to it it deteriorates pretty good.

If the DIY repairs don't hold you can always take it to the professionals for a new roof. I would actually inquire around to local roofers to see if anybody wanted to take a shot at it. As noted above, as soon as you say RV the price doubles.

When do you start for home?

Kirk

I would not be too afraid of slitting and making your glu down repairs. When done seal up your slit with the special self leveling caulk they sell. I have replaced some aging caulk aroung vents etc and repaired a small tear from a twig with that special caulk and it very good stuff. It appears to be the same as factory sealer.

I don't know about Rubber roofs on RV's . Mine has a one piece metal on it and it is a 85 model. the only trouble I have had with it at the factory they failed to close a hole in the back witch caused me to have to replace the whole back of RV. They say that the rubber roofs are only good for 10 years

WE plan to start North March 31 but spend a few days in Memphis where the oldest son and his wife and grandaughter are.........We have to go to Texas in Mid May and then from mid June to end of July were going to 8 Natl Parks all the way to Vancouver BC and finally back to Indiana

John T

There is a special tape made to repair membrane roofs it will stick to about anything.You will need to clean it first with naphtha or something similar .Google microsealant technology for information.If you decide to try it I can send you part of a roll free.It comes in a 40 ft.x 6in.roll.I use it to repair roofs on coolers and freezers.

John,
How about using fender washers under the pan head screws?
Pete

They make a washer designed only for that purpose, avaliable at most lumber yards. Make sure your screw does not go to deep in to the wirring etc.

I would find a contractor that deals with rubber roofs, I had one help me a couple of years ago, wasn't that expensive, you could take the job right to them. Usually you have to buy large quantities of some materials and you would have a lot left over.

i can vouch for NP1...its good stuff but i dont know if its compatible with your roofing...last time i went to the lumber yard that carries the NP1,they told me about a new product called Thru The Roof...they told me its better and about same price.

How old is it? Rubber is only good for 15 yrs & if the glue has failed its about time for the wind action (either while moving or sitting in the wind) to cause wear holes in the rubber. Much the same thing happens to an old inner tube. After it flexes so much it just gives out. Sounds like you're better off to do the whole roof, according to my experience.

I would do as Russ suggested and find a pro. Hal

I considered that, first lay down some Dicor sealant, run the screws down with a fender washer, re seal the top, once all done n dried n cured, lay a coat of rubber roof sealant over the entire area THAT OUGHT TO DO IT

John T

Go to you-tube and type in repair for your situation, there are videos on this. I thought rubber membranes were repair after the fact not a roof instead of metal, different.

(quoted from post at 12:01:06 03/12/10) I considered that, first lay down some Dicor sealant, run the screws down with a fender washer, re seal the top, once all done n dried n cured, lay a coat of rubber roof sealant over the entire area THAT OUGHT TO DO IT

John T

Click to expand...

John I am the manager of a lumberyard and sell EPDM everyday I would strongly sugggest go to a local yard and ask for lap caulk or water cutoff mastic if you want screw from top. I also stock round peel and stick patches you could stick down over screw after installation . Any local yard should be able to get these but seriously doubt any big box store would carry them.

Dustin Il

I've used water cutoff mastic and did it with a screw from the top of my roof. It is really good and easy to do, and install to the rubber.