LP tank guidance...

We own the tank, came with the place, but the last night when I checked how much we had, I thought it smelled wrong. Made mental note how much gas(7-8%) we had but looked again this evening, ~ 5, so At Least, I did know to mix up some soapy water....Welp, then saw the bubbles appear. So, the only next move I could think of was grab a screw-driver. There wasn`t any tightening that thing up. I "could" try harder w/a bigger screwdriver & small pipe wrench, but I`m perty leary about that.
I guess the good thing is that its down to 5%! I guess what I was asking is, does the tank have to be dry/empty when the fix is done? It looks like to me, its the gasket just below the % gauge, I`ll afix a pic.
I Also do know, LP gas ain`t something for a newbie to be play`n with...lol.
Just wondered ya`all`s thoughts....Thank you all again in advance!!!!
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Well ,I don't know what anyone else thinks but that whole apparatus dosen't look like anything I would want close to my house..remember propane is heavier than air and will settle in low spots "like a basement" good luck
 
Had the same thing happen to one of my tanks. I just loosened the screws a little, tightened em back up and problem solved. Hope yours is that easy.
 
Seeing as how it is yours, The answer is have a propane qualified repair person replace the entire assembly. That stuff on there is deadly and guarannnnnttteeeeddd to not be repairable. The whole tank needs to be certified and cleaned/repainted. If you have ever seen one 350 ft in the air, I do not recommend anything but immediate professional service. Be very careful around it till it is repaired. Jim
 
The tank doesn't look too good either. If that was mine, I would go for a new tank and all new gauges, regulator and hoses, every thing new.
 
The tank doesn't look too good either. If that was mine, I would go for a new tank and all new gauges, regulator and hoses, every thing new.
 
I am usually never negative, but this gastric disturbance on the top of that tank cannot be fixed even if it could be made to stop leaking!!!! Jim
 
That valve assembly 3in pipe thread is a butane valve. Look on tank some where close to valve there is a plate that gives gallons,tank pressure,date or mfg. Around here no certification plate no fill.
 
There is an o-ring that seals under the gauge. Since you are down to less than 5 percent you can vent the vapor to the atmosphere and relieve the pressure enough to change the o-ring gasket.
 
All I suggest you do as far as repairing it is go ahead and soak the screws with PB Blaster or some other penatrating oil in hopes it will help the repairman from the local lp supplier when he arives to take care of it. Wherther you need to replace the tank and guages is something the repairman can tell you after he examines everything. Fixing old worn out tractors over the internet is one thing,LP gas aperatuses is a whole nother game.
 
THANK YOU Gentlemen for all your replies/advice, I knew you folks would know a good bit more than me!!!
Now I do want to add that the lp co-op that we do use, pre-fall, last year offered to buy our tank for $500...but , of course we would`ve been "locked-in", getting our gas from them & I like the option, w/the price of oil products. I Hope this, I "guess" proves that the tanks not a rust bucket, I knew this year she was getting some paint.
We`ll be calling the co-op & I`ll make darn sure I`m here when the driver shows up w/a bunch of questions.
TY`all again for your help!!!!
 
The truck driver gave me the gasket and I put it in, in 5 minutes, but I ran the tank empty and the delivery driver will have to do a leak down test before he will refill a empty tank.
 
Gilbert, I own my own tank also.I did a complete OH on my head assembly a number of years ago. Since your tank is already low burn it dry. then do your Head Assembly repair.
You will need at least a 25 gal bottle to use as a nurse tank to supply LP to the house while you do the repair. Check with a local gas provider to check out the various laws to see if the tank is still in complience,IE... Manufacture tag is still afixed to the tank, no rust through spots if the tank has setteled into a soil cradle and not setting above the ground. If the tag is gone or if there is major rust (not just surface) the tank may be condemmed so a newer tank will be in order.
If the tank is in good order then OH the Head assembly and go on your merry way. Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
 
if the coop offered you $500 for the tank, i would take it and let them set a tank. then take that money and add a little more and buy a used tank with the new style valves for $600 and replace the coop tank. getting the screws out requires a hammer screwdriver and pb blaster.
 
You aren't the only one with that problem. Mine started leaking a few months ago, and I have been spraying it with everything known to man, and haven't moved the screws a bit so far. The propane man said when the weather gets warmer, he will try to drill them out. You have to use an air drill so no sparks. I ain't got the cojones to try it myself, so I am leaving it up to him. He said sometimes it will work and sometimes not. If you mess up the threads, all the tank is good for is a big bar-b-que pit. Good luck, but I would leave it to the professional. And the tank does need to be empty to replace the gasket.
 
I have replaced the gasket on tank gauges a couple of times. In most cases I had to use a handimpact driver with a heavy brass hammer to remove the screws.but i would have to say looking at your tank. i would have your gas supplier come out and update all gauges and valves.
 

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