Roll pin or cotter Pin

less apt to break versus ease of removal. roll pins shatter from their hardness, while a cotter pin will shear.
 
General rule of thumb. If it wears out it is too soft, if it breaks it was too hard.

Due to the fact that the application may not have a hole or alignment to accept or provide a snug fit for a roll pin a cotter is perfectly acceptable. I use cotters mostly unless there is a clearance issue. I guess you could use a nail if you need to, I have taken apart allot of tractors and equipment with wire and nails holding their own.
 
Most of the castle nuts I've seen are on the JD front spindles.

Checked the front bearings on both our 51 MTs and secured all with cotter pins.

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Replaced both bearings on "Uncle Earl" our 39B and secured both with cotter pins.

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Replaced the bearings on "15" our Model 70 last weekend and secured both with cotter pins.

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Hope this helps.

 
Cotter key. A castle nut is not the right application to use a roll pin. Besides the force needed to keep the nut from turning is minimal. A roll pin just isn't needed.

Gene
 
Roll pin is harder and so stronger but never used on a lock./castle nut. Cotter pin not as strong but the castle nut is made for them to be used in/on them. As with tools each has its place
 
What everyone else said. Roll pins are intended to carry torque. A castle nut should never pass any significant torque to the cotter key; if it does, something else (e.g. a bearing) has already failed.
 
As has been stated, there shouldn"t be any significant forces to shear the cotter pin. However, a cotter pin is bent preventing it from falling out. If the roll pin is a hair under the diameter of the hole, or gets hit right, it can just fall out.
 
Most cotter pins I bought in the last 5 years aren't worth a nickel. Must be china. Bend 'em with your fingers, no tools. Dave
 

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